For me, shoe restoration has never been about simply making an old pair look presentable again. It is about preserving craftsmanship from an era when shoes were built with integrity, recraftability, and character. In a world increasingly driven by disposable fashion, I’ve developed a deep appreciation for restoring legacy footwear — shoes that still possess exceptional leather quality, strong structural foundations, and the unmistakable soul that only time and wear can create. Much of my work has centered around heritage American and European footwear, including vintage Allen Edmonds wingtips, bicycle toes, and custom patina projects, along with refined European styles from Mezlan, including woven oxfords and other classic dress silhouettes. Many of these pairs arrived heavily neglected: dried and oxidized uppers, uneven factory finishes, deep creasing, dulled welts, faded color transitions, and years of embedded contamination that muted the natural beauty of the leather. Beneath all of that wear, though, there was still life in the shoes — and that is what I’m always trying to uncover. My restoration process begins with deep leather cleaning and decontamination using saddle soap, leather cleansers, and controlled stripping agents such as acetone or professional deglazers to remove failing finishes, wax buildup, silicones, and surface contaminants. I approach this carefully because the goal is never to aggressively strip the leather, but to reveal its natural character while preserving its integrity. Once stripped, the leather is slowly rehydrated and nourished using products such as Saphir Renovateur, Venetian Shoe Cream, and penetrating conditioners designed to restore flexibility, richness, and depth back into tired calfskin. I allow the leather time to absorb and stabilize before moving into color work. Leather responds best when it’s treated patiently. The artistic process begins with custom patina development. Rather than applying flat, uniform color, I build depth through layered dye applications using alcohol-based dyes, creams, and tonal blending techniques that create movement and transparency across the upper. My work consistently gravitates toward rich cognacs, museum browns, tobacco undertones, espresso burnishing, and antiqued transitions that give the shoes an old-world European character without looking artificial or overdone.

CW = critiques welcome! Lots going on today including several vendor meetings. The real fun is tonight when my eldest son has his final banquet for track and field during high school. He's taken home rookie of the year and 2 MVPs, so we are hoping for the sweep this year! Use a suit to allow me to take off the jacket as needed. However, I am also wearing sleeve garters for the first time (and the one pick shows it's still a learning process!). Finally, every now and then I put in CPW metrics for the wardrobe items used and I've got those here today. Some area excellent and some need work, but Tuesdays always ensure the app selects from 1-5 items with the worst CPW to help spread the use around my wardrobe. • Suit — SJ-013, SL-022 (Mantoni) | CPW: $44.00 + $24.83 = $68.83. A light gray Mantoni windowpane suit in lightweight airy wool, featuring a bold pattern scale with navy and light-blue paneling. The jacket offers slight padding at the shoulders, a notched lapel, and a clean 80% lining. The matching trousers feature high-rise construction with belt and suspender anchors, delivering a modern business-classic silhouette that's breathable enough for late-spring weather while maintaining unmistakable formality. • Shirt — DS-040 (Charles Tyrwhitt) | CPW: $7.11. A CT slim-fit Non-Iron Twill dress shirt in crisp white with French cuffs. Constructed from 2-ply cotton with a classic point collar and rounded French cuffs, this shirt provides the perfect canvas for a patterned tie. The adjustable French cuffs allow for precise cufflink placement, while the soft hand and non-iron finish ensure all-day sharpness. • Undershirt — US-003 (Pro Club) | CPW: $0.49. A heavyweight white cotton crew-neck undershirt from Pro Club. The medium-to-heavy drape ensures no show-through under the opaque twill dress shirt while providing solid moisture absorption throughout the workday. • Tie — NT-047 (Charles Tyrwhitt) | CPW: $32.50. A pink silk necktie with dark pink accents and navy polka dots, finished with a hand-finished 3-fold construction. At 3.25" width and 58.5" length, it pairs beautifully with the gray windowpane suit, adding a pop of color while maintaining business-formal decorum. The pattern scale creates visual interest without overwhelming the suit's bold windowpane.