Match #9 kicks off the first full round of my 40-fragrance tournament, and we're starting with a heavyweight matchup: Burberry Hero Parfum versus Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male Elixir. Not exactly a summertime pairing, but with gray skies and steady rain today, it felt like the perfect time to compare them. Burberry Hero Parfum (2024, created by Aurélien Guichard) is the fragrance that started my collecting journey. It's all about wood—cedar, amyris, cypriol, and incense—and it has a warm, confident character that I never seem to tire of. Le Male Elixir (2023, created by Quentin Bisch) goes in a completely different direction. It's a rich blend of lavender, mint, vanilla, honey, tonka bean, and tobacco that somehow manages to be both sweet and sophisticated. This one really came down to mood, because I'd happily wear either on a date with my fiancée. Today, though, I'm giving the edge to Le Male Elixir. It feels just a little more complex and keeps revealing new facets as the day goes on. Burberry Hero Parfum certainly made it a battle, but Le Male Elixir advances to the next round.

Match #10 in my 40-fragrance tournament is a true clash of styles: #16 seed Dior Sauvage Eau de Parfum versus #17 seed Chanel Platinum Égoïste. A modern blue powerhouse against one of the great barbershop classics. These matchups aren't getting any easier. Dior Sauvage Eau de Parfum (2018, created by François Demachy) combines bergamot, Sichuan pepper, lavender, star anise, nutmeg, and a smooth vanilla base into a fragrance that's bold, versatile, and incredibly easy to wear. Chanel Platinum Égoïste (1993, created by Jacques Polge) is all refined confidence, blending rosemary, lavender, geranium, vetiver, and oakmoss into one of the most elegant masculine fragrances ever made. The truth is, both of these will have a place in my collection for years to come. But today, Sauvage gets the nod. It doesn't hurt that my fiancée practically purred the first time I wore it, so it earns a few bonus points for that. It's tough to see Platinum Égoïste drop into the loser's bracket this early, but that's what happens when two outstanding fragrances meet in the opening round.

This is a woody aromatic with a sharp green-aquatic twist, dropped back in 2021 originally as part of Tom Ford’s fancy Private Blend range before they moved it over to the regular Signature line. No perfumer is officially named, which is typical for these Ford releases, with the exception of Sonia Constant As the name says, it’s meant to capture the vibe of the Côte d’Azur. To capture that French Riviera feeling, like you’re stood on a sun-warmed coast where cypress & oak trees run right down to salt-kissed sea air. It’s nothing like your usual generic freshie; it’s a proper snapshot of a place, for anyone who wants something crisp but with actual depth. First spray hits you with that bright, sun-drenched opening they talk about: zingy lemon and mandarin mixed with soft driftwood, seaweed, and that unmistakable salty kick. There’s a tiny dash of cardamom and celery seed too, which gives it a subtle peppery edge so it never feels boring or too “soapy”. Give it 15 minutes and the heart settles in: crisp cypress and juniper take the lead, backed up by clean lavender and myrtle. There’s just a faint hint of sweetness here to keep it from getting sharp or medicinal. Dries down to rich oak, earthy vetiver and olibanum, plus a whisper of vanilla and soft smoky incense that adds just enough warmth without weighing the whole thing down. Now for the reality, this juice is not cheap, my local Dublin shop retails a 100ml for €181. Its like a designer house with niche pricing. That said I don't think anyone could argue the quality of this house. Their fragrances deliver. I get almost 7 hours on skin, with solid projection for the first 2–3 hours before it settles into a nice close bubble. It’s unisex, made for warmer weather, and works just as well for sunny days as it does mild evenings. It’s not my usual go-to style, but I honestly like this, it’s different, enjoyable, and stands out from every other fresh scent out there. My Rating: 8/10 Scent: 2.5 Longevity: 2.5 Sillage: 2