Le Labo is one of those houses that can easily be dismissed as overpriced, minimalist, and overly trendy. I understand that argument, especially when you consider the simple bottles, the clinical presentation, and the prices. However, once I spent more time with the fragrances, I realized there is much more going on here than the label and the hype. The fragrances are generally not loud or designed to announce your arrival. Le Labo focuses more on atmosphere, texture, and the way a fragrance develops around the wearer. Some people may interpret that as weak or boring, but I see it as intentional restraint. These are fragrances that become part of your personal space rather than taking over the entire room. I currently own Gaiac 10, Another 13, Bergamote 22, Santal 33, Rose 31, Thé Matcha 26, and Thé Noir 29. That gives me enough range to understand what the house does well. Gaiac 10 is probably the best representation of the quieter side of Le Labo. It is woody, musky, slightly smoky, and extremely understated. This is not something I wear when I want attention. I wear it when I want something clean, calming, and personal. Another 13 is built around that clean, musky, almost skin-like effect. It can seem simple at first, but it creates an unusual scent bubble and changes depending on the wearer. It is also one of those fragrances that other people may notice when you have almost stopped smelling it yourself. Bergamote 22 is one of the brighter and more immediately likable fragrances from the house. It gives me citrus, greenery, and clean woods without smelling like a typical fresh designer fragrance. This is one of the easiest Le Labos for me to wear in the Arizona heat. Santal 33 has become so popular that the fragrance almost gets punished for its own success. Yes, it has been copied repeatedly, and yes, some people get a pickle-like quality from it. I still respect what it accomplished. Its dry sandalwood, leather, and spicy character helped define an entire modern fragrance style.

I went to the mall yesterday to smell the Le Labo City Exclusives, and I will be going back again today because I don’t believe in making a final judgment from one quick visit—especially with fragrances carrying this kind of price tag. Unfortunately, the clerk told me he had already sprayed all the card stock that morning on SHIU 25 and would not let me spray fresh ones myself. That made absolutely no sense. When I told him, “All I’ll be able to smell is some of the drydown,” he just looked at me with a blank stare. If I am evaluating an expensive fragrance, I want to experience the opening, the development, and the drydown. Smelling a card that was sprayed several hours earlier only gives me one piece of the fragrance. In some cases, the opening and transition are what separate a good fragrance from a great one. The entire City Exclusives concept is built around scarcity. Each fragrance is attached to a particular city, available there throughout the year, and then released worldwide during a limited annual window. That naturally creates anticipation and makes people feel as though they need to make a decision before the opportunity disappears. But does limited availability automatically make the fragrance better? Absolutely not. Some of the City Exclusives are beautiful and distinctive. Gaiac 10, which I already own, is probably the best example for me. It is quiet, smooth, woody, and musky, but it has a presence that keeps pulling me back. It does not scream across the room, yet there is something addictive about the way it sits around you. I was also very impressed by Cedrat 37, the Berlin City Exclusive. I have now experienced it properly on skin, so this is no longer an impression based on an old test strip. It opens with bright, slightly tart cedrat citrus mixed with ginger and a touch of candied sweetness. As it develops, the woods, musk, and ambergris give it more body than a typical fresh citrus fragrance. It also has good staying power on my skin, which is important when we are talking about a fragrance at this price. Cedrat 37 stayed fresh without becoming thin or disappearing quickly, and the drydown maintained enough substance to keep me interested.