I'm not sure if it's me, where I'm at in the hobby, or if it is just generally not a great release year, but I've been struggling to get excited about most of the new releases this year. Flankers for brands and lines that I'd been collecting up to this point seem boring and flat. Is anyone else finding this year's releases less than stellar? I'm just wondering if it's that or perhaps I've hit a saturation point in my collection. M aybe it's both? Curious as to others experiences this year, and as always, open to recommendations to things that might be more exciting that you've discovered this year.

Part of Memo's Graines Vagabondes collection, Ithaque was released in 2023 and created by perfumer Marypierre Julien. Named after Odysseus’s legendary island home, it’s built around the theme of a long journey ending. The bright, sunlit arrival giving way to warm, solid ground. One point worth noting, it’s listed as a Chypre, but forget that heavy, old-school vibe. This is a thoroughly modern take, with bright citrus, tart fruit, and clean woods, with a subtle cinnamon twist you rarely see done this well in fresh fragrances. It opens crisp and vibrant, bergamot and bitter orange give a zesty, sun-ripened start. Timut Pepper brings that distinct grapefruit-zest kick without heat, while juniper adds a cool, green-herbal lift. And that cinnamon bark, well that is the masterstroke. It’s soft, warm, and gently spicy, never festive or cake-like; just enough to wrap the citrus in a golden glow and stop it from feeling generic. As it settles, the fruit takes centre stage: blackcurrant bud is rich, tart, almost vinous, elevated by that extra-special Cassis Celestedeeper. Redcurrant keeps it bright, and jasmine absolute adds a quiet, refined polish to round the edges. The dry-down is clean, cedarwood provides dry, sturdy warmth, while patchouli heart adds just enough earthy depth to ground it. Performance is around the six hours on skin with a polite, refined trail; it projects nicely early then settles close, clinging on longest as cedar and currant. This is absolutely made for warm weather—spring, summer, daytime, office, casual evenings. In cooler months it feels a little too light; it doesn’t have the backbone to carry winter days. The cinnamon-citrus opening is what makes it special—you’ve smelled bergamot and pepper a hundred times, but you’ve rarely smelled them paired with cinnamon this tastefully. It’s not the most complex Memo release, and it won’t blow the room away. Just excellent craftsmanship that delivers exactly what it promises. My Rating 7/10 Scent 2 Longevity 2

There is a slow approaching chill in the air and I was vibing this amazing classic. Needs no introduction to be fair. A 2013 release, created by my favourite perfumer Alienor Massenet. She's the woman behind most of the early Memo Paris line, responsible for some of the finest leather fragrances outside Tom Ford's. This still hold a spot on my top 10 all timers. Designed to transport you straight to a 1920s Manhattan speakeasy: smoke curling through the air, worn leather armchairs, and rum cocktails on every table. Its always had an uncanny nostalgia/comfort for me. This is not a typical Boozy scent. Its sweet, warm, and undeniably masculine. It opens bright and fresh: lemon and neroli cut through first, with a pinch of pink pepper adding just enough spicy kick to wake things up. But this scent truly comes alive in the heart. that's where the magic sits. Boozy rum and rich tobacco take centre stage, softened by clary sage lending an herbal, aromatic edge. Beneath it all, a subtle leather note. Exactly the smell of that well-worn club furniture. As it settles, it warms into a smooth, creamy dry-down: vanilla wraps everything in comfort, vetiver adds an earthy depth, and benzoin leaves a sweet, gently smoky finish. Beautifully balanced, nothing screams, nothing fights. Now for the honest truth. My opinion or understanding here has changed. I used to think that it's lack of performance was it's stumbling block. Back then if it didn't project like a mofo, it's was a bad thing. Now I see it a little different. I can appreciate it as it was created. I enjoy the subtle moments it creates. It only lasts about 5hrs on skin at best, before it retreats to a soft skin scent. Projection is polite, never loud enough to fill a room, just a warm, intimate bubble. Its noticeable only to those close enough. And for that? Expect to pay about, €146 for a 100ml. Which ain't so bad for an entry level niche. Most designer frags come in at that pp or higher As it stands? A stunning cold-weather scent — perfect for evenings, dinner dates, or indeed a night out in a jazz club.