This simple picture may not look like much but for about a decade I have been trying to ignite char off from a knife. Migizi Outdoors Bushcraft / Survival Knife and Ohio chert for the win. Just an ember, just for fun, great big smile.

This week we’re keeping it simple and honest: build a fire using only one match. Not because it’s “cool” but because it forces good fundamentals: prep, structure, and discipline. The Objective Get a sustainable fire going using: - 1 match total - Natural tinder + kindling - No accelerants Rules (what counts) - You get one strike. If it breaks or goes out, that’s your attempt. - You can prep as long as you want before you light it. - Fire is considered “successful” when it:Burns on its own without you holding it togetherProduces a steady flame for 2 full minutesCan accept a pencil-thick stick without dying What’s allowed - 1 match - Knife, ferro rod for scraping only (no sparks) - Natural materials: bark, grasses, fatwood, pine resin, seed heads, etc. - Feather sticks allowed - Your normal outdoor clothing and whatever you’d realistically have on you What’s NOT allowed - Lighters - Multiple matches - Fire starters (cotton balls, dryer lint, commercial tinder) - Fuel/accelerants (gas, alcohol, lighter fluid) - Pre-made bundles you brought from home (collect it where you are) Safety first - Follow local laws and burn bans - Clear your area, have water nearby - Don’t do this in high wind or drought conditionsIf conditions aren’t safe, do the “dry run” version below. Post your attempt (use this format) Reply to this post with: 1. Location + conditions: (temp, wind, wet/dry) 2. Tinder used: 3. Kindling used: (sizes matter) 4. Fire lay: (teepee, log cabin, lean-to, etc.) 5. Result: success/fail + what happened 6. Lesson learned: one sentence Bonus points if you include: - A photo of your tinder bundle before lighting - A 10–20 second clip of ignition (if you can safely do it) If you can’t do an outdoor burn Do the prep-only version: - Build your tinder bundle + kindling stack - Take a photo - Post it here and I’ll tell you if it would have worked and what to fix My promise If you post your attempt, I’ll give you specific fixes (not generic advice) so your next one is cleaner.

One match fire and three rounds with ferro rod. Pretty sure the source log is impregnated with resin...

I live in grid square 19T 4195 and my observation point is at the end of my road that ends at the highway. Coordinates 19T 413954 or more completely 19T 34125E 47954N. Due west from my location is Hayes Hill near the margin. To the southeast is Haven Hill. I can see water towers and airport lights on both hills. I am partway up Rochester Hill and there is a drainage divide directly behind me where runoff goes northeast past my house to the brook along the railroad. From where I am standing the runoff goes northwest down the hill to Willard brook. The open field across the highway from me is a great view into a wood lot where there are many trails through the tree farm. The woods to the east of the tree farm are very thick with multiple brooks that show up on the map but the contours don’t really show the steep ravines. There is low ground where the runoff from the tree farm crosses the local road. The hill to the southeast of me has rounded contour lines and the elevation near the peak of the hill is 400 feet. The map that I made has both UTM Coordinates and Latitude / Longitude documented in the margins and the scale is 1:24,000 or one-inch equals 2,000 feet. The declination in my area is -14.2 degrees, that is to the west. Movement would be easiest through the field and then trails in the tree farm. It would be more difficult in the woods to the east of these features. Visibility across the field is great. To move undetected at night I would use the RR tracks as a handrail. The most light and generator power are at the hospital and both nursing homes that are adjacent. I will add a comment regarding the reflection.