The deeper I’ve gotten into perfumery, the less importance I put on a published note list. And owning and smelling a lot of originals and clones really drove that home for me. Take Creed Aventus and Armaf Club de Nuit Intense Man. You can put their note lists next to each other and see a lot of the same ideas—citrus, pineapple, blackcurrant, birch, woods, musk, amber. Now take Louis Vuitton Imagination and Zara Sunrise on the Red Sand Dunes. Again, you’re dealing with that same general citrus, ginger, amber, clean and fresh territory. But here’s my point: A note list isn’t a formula. You can duplicate every note somebody publishes and still not duplicate the fragrance. “Pineapple” isn’t necessarily pineapple oil sitting in a bottle somewhere. “Leather” doesn’t mean somebody squeezed a leather jacket into the formula. A lot of what we call notes are accords or simply the perfumer’s interpretation of an aroma. Give two perfumers the same list—bergamot, pineapple, birch, woods and musk—and you can end up with two completely different fragrances. The materials matter. The aroma chemicals matter. The quality matters. The proportions matter. The construction matters. And most importantly, the perfumer’s interpretation matters. This is one reason I think people get too caught up in Fragrantica note pyramids. Most of us can’t smell a fragrance blind and accurately identify 12 or 15 individual notes anyway. We smell the overall composition. We might say it’s citrusy. Woody. Smoky. Sweet. Green. Spicy. Creamy. Fresh. Then we look at the note breakdown and suddenly we’re smelling Sicilian bergamot harvested on a Tuesday morning. 😂 Come on. I’ve owned hundreds of clones, and that’s actually taught me to pay less attention to whether the clone copied the published notes and more attention to whether it captured the actual fragrance. Because that’s what a clone is really trying to reproduce. Not the note list. The smell. And even when a clone gets extremely close, it’s still an interpretation of somebody else’s composition. Maybe the opening is sharper. Maybe the woods are rougher. Maybe the original transitions better. Maybe the clone projects more. Maybe one ingredient is emphasized differently.

I'm not sure if it's me, where I'm at in the hobby, or if it is just generally not a great release year, but I've been struggling to get excited about most of the new releases this year. Flankers for brands and lines that I'd been collecting up to this point seem boring and flat. Is anyone else finding this year's releases less than stellar? I'm just wondering if it's that or perhaps I've hit a saturation point in my collection. M aybe it's both? Curious as to others experiences this year, and as always, open to recommendations to things that might be more exciting that you've discovered this year.

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