When I picked up my first DH at the end of last year, it was a choice between the parfum & this. I picked the parfum but swore I'd return for the intense, it's a masterpiece to be honest. That powdery lipstick like Iris is genius. Originally launched in 2007 as a limited edition, it was later reformulated and reintroduced as a permanent staple in 2011. Whilst the og was an Oliver Polge creation, François Demachy is the architect behind this, having refined its DNA into the darker, richer scent it has become. As far as reformulation goes, there seems to have been four major changes over the years. However I have only experience with this one to date.
It belongs to the Woody Floral Musk family. It has a Lavender opening, although brief, it's an aromatic flash that quickly gives way to the star of the show. At its heart notes of Tuscan Iris, Ambrette (Musk Mallow) & Pear, were a rich, powdery & waxy iris meets a fruity, musky sweetness. At its base Virgina Cedar & Vetiver. But I'm detecting a subtle touch of Amber/Vanilla! The dry down is creamy, woody & incredibly smooth.
Performance is rather good here, you can expect several hours easily and it will cling to clothes for dear life. Projection is not bad. It is no room-filler like Sauvage; rather, it creates a 3-foot scent bubble that feels sophisticated and alluring. This is a real get dressed up/ black tie type of fragrance, perfect for date nights, galas, or cold-weather evenings out.
My Rating: 8/10
Scent: 3
Longevity: 2
Sillage: 2
Y/N: 1