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The Pawpaw patch

57 members • Free

Oasis Builders

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Food Forest Family (FREE)

3.8k members • Free

99 contributions to Oasis Builders
Expanding one row at a time!
This fall I plan on expanding my food forest with more trees. My rows are generally 120’ on contour and fit 10-12 trees per row and a usually double that in support species plants. This new row will be focused on Pawpaws! I have 12 spots and looking to get 12 distinct varieties and as genetically different as possible. The goal is to get promising and proven trees with large and productive fruit. Eventually having a chance to produce crosses between them! With the abundance of fruit I will sell and collect seeds to start a small nursery 50-100 and then sell to public!
Expanding one row at a time!
1 like • 3d
@Jim Flach Yes, a grafted tree produces fruit that is genetically identical to the scion (the named cultivar). However, the seeds inside that fruit are the result of sexual reproduction between the mother flower and the pollen father, so they contain a new combination of genes. That’s why a seed from a grafted pawpaw won’t grow into the same cultivar—it will be a unique seedling that may resemble one parent more than the other, but it won’t be genetically identical. The rootstock doesn’t contribute genes to the fruit or the seed; it mainly influences vigor, nutrient uptake, and sometimes fruit size or timing through physiological effects. Just like in the apple industry using different root stock to produce dwarf or semi dwarf or disease resistance.
1 like • 3d
@Jim Flach Yes, that’s how most controlled pawpaw crosses are made. Breeders hand-pollinate a receptive flower with pollen from a selected parent, then bag the flower to prevent additional pollen from reaching it. While no method is completely foolproof, bagging is generally very effective. If the bag is applied before the flower is receptive and remains sealed until the stigma is no longer receptive, the resulting seeds are highly likely to be from the intended cross.
AI as your Designer
Designing landscape/garden can be daunting especially when you have to consider many areas such as space, focal view, plant type, existing conditions and purpose just to name a few. Not too long ago, one might just get a landscape designer and depending on affordability, hopefully you get what you want. This would usually be for larger plots like 2-10 acres. In this age of AI, you could get it to design your landscape idea but it seems everything is possible unless you have the proper prompt. In addition, description can only do so much but a vision of the finish landscape in 1 yr, 3 yr, 5 yr, 10 yr and 20+ yrs is much better. Has anyone experience or come across a program/AI that allows one to plan and vision as such? An actual picture rendering of what makes sense before proceeding in a ..... does not make sense scenario!
AI as your Designer
2 likes • 4d
I use AI every day and one of the worst qualities it has is rendering words into a finished image. It can't tell a Bur Oak vs Pin Oak. It just guesses and a lot of times it's not even close. Some of that is user error and some of it is just limitations of the technology. While it can get you the 80% of it only experience or trail by error will get you to 90%. Since we are limited, we can't ask all the right questions or solve all the problems. That is where we have to grow as individuals. Or pay the big bucks and buy software meant for designing landscapes.
2 likes • 4d
@Robert Chan I do think AI has greatly changed the way people gather information and lowered the cost to do a lot of things. I’ll give an example. Instead of hiring a company to take care of my pond I used AI to make up a plan and saved thousands in doing so. But…. AI is biased towards agreeing with you and making you feel a certain way. And it makes up details about 20% of the time. I do use it to generate images but the images are usually only 80-90% correct. Which is frustrating sometimes.
Planning in August for a Fall Harvest
We typically look at the 4th of July as the planning date with starting several plants indoors to be transplanted in late August or September when the heat breaks. That being said, there are several cool weather crops that with a little early frost protection can easily reach maturity and some leave in the ground for a winter harvest like carrots. Frost protection does not need to be expensive and can be used in the autumn and the spring. We can make another post about cost effective frost protection if anyone is interested. To begin planning the autumn garden, first check your average first frost date and count backward to find expected days for maturity. We will then use these days to select seed that has the best potential to mature. Remember that growth slows as the days become shorter, so allow a little extra time. Also for me, I can eat anything from a sprout with first true leaves to maturity, so as long as I do not let the frost take it out, I'm good. Next, how much bed area is available to plant now? For me in TN, I am planting soaked lettuce seed under my tomatoes. Will your bed area receive enough sunlight as the sun moves lower in the southern sky? Everything south of me is deciduous so soon to loose there leaves. Will you sow seeds directly or use transplants to save time? Probably by August you are looking to direct seed although many cold weather crops will have poor germination with soil over 75 degrees F. Are you ok using short maturity hybrid seed or do you want to stick with open pollinated seed? Once we know the answers to these questions, we can make a seed list that has the highest potential for success. Cool-season crops such as lettuce, spinach, kale, radishes, carrots, beets, turnips, and Asian greens may all have a place, depending on your climate and remaining growing season. Fall gardening is not about filling every empty space. It is about choosing crops that fit the season, the household, and the care we can realistically provide.
5 likes • 5d
Another crop you can grow is a cover crop. This crop is grown until frost and then terminated by snow. This practice provides a buffer for your soil and adds a slow-release carbon source throughout the winter until the next spring. To have a thriving garden each year, you must nourish your soil with compost, green manure, composted manure, leaves, and amendments to replenish what you’ve harvested throughout the growing season. Cover crops also contribute to crop rotation, ensuring that you don’t create deficiencies in any particular area. Healthy soil combined with good seeds leads to healthy plants that are resistant to disease and pests!
knowledge Vs experience
I sadly have to admit if you want to know a fact the best and most effective way is to ask my wife's boyfriend (chat GPT) he gives reliable answers and is charming at the same time. If you want to know what it feels like to smell rain , even a light drizzle, after a prolonged drought, you need to experience it. Experience tells me this rain will make no difference to the moisture in the soil, and won't save dieing trees, but I feel uplifting and encouraged that rain is possible. The experience of a catastrophic event gives an opportunity to reassess and make a better system, or in my case perhaps downsize to a concentration of plants more easily manageable in a crisis. The year has show weak points and how delicate balance tips quickly, at the beginning of the year we had too much water and it looked like a lush paradise everywhere, and I thought it would be the best year ever. Now it's a scorched dieing landscape, limp mature trees with yellowing leaves . Some parts have remained green, obviously the areas with reserves of water and deeper soil . So the next step is to take this experience and use it to replant more appropriate plants and to prioritise the more resilient areas. Find better ways to preserve water and increase shade. History and experience are intwined and I know that the last great drought in 1976 was followed by extensive flooding in October.
1 like • 5d
The drought isn’t only showing where the system is resilient. It is also showing where there is still work to be done. The areas that stayed green reveal where the land already has deeper soil, better water reserves, or more protection. Those places can become the foundation of the system. But the stressed areas should not automatically be written off. They are also giving information about what is missing—shade, organic matter, water retention, deeper roots, better plant selection, or a different use altogether. Consolidation may be part of the strategy, especially during a crisis, but so is improving the weak areas enough that they become more productive and resilient over time. It also shows how misleading appearances can be. At the beginning of the year, everything looked lush and balanced because water was abundant. Once conditions changed, the deeper reality of the system became visible. A healthy-looking landscape is not always a resilient one. Sometimes we only discover what a system truly is when it is placed under stress.
2 likes • 7d
@Jim Flach yes the garden has produced abundantly. I can sense that we are peaking now and are slowly starting to transition into fall crops. Planting a lot of fall crops along with cover crops now. I surprised with overall vigor or the plants and very low pest and disease pressure.
2 likes • 7d
@Jim Flach 1st year soil by usually is a good garden.
1-10 of 99
Jon Shobe
6
1,471 points to level up
@jon-shobe-2169
Have a small farm located in zone USDA 6b. Property is 5 acres creating a biodiversity food production homestead .

Active 4h ago
Joined Apr 13, 2026
INTP
Ohio, USA