One of my first thoughts is to keep it cut to the ground until it runs out of stored sugars. Every new leaf is the plant trying to rebuild its reserves through photosynthesis, so the goal is to never let it keep those leaves very long. If the patch is small enough, digging the roots when the soil is moist can speed things up, but poison ivy spreads through underground stems and missed pieces can easily resprout. Another option is to cut everything low and cover the area with heavy black plastic, plywood, or another completely light-blocking material for a full growing season or longer although you still have to watch the edges for escaping shoots. If it is growing among valuable shrubs or trees and she is open to very limited herbicide use, the most precise method may actually cause the least collateral damage. Cut an individual poison ivy stem and immediately paint only the fresh cut surface with a systemic herbicide labeled for cut-stump poison ivy treatment. If you choose the herbicide route, look for a concentrated triclopyr product whose label permits cut-stump treatment. Cut the poison ivy stem and carefully paint only the freshly cut surface, following the product label. This greatly reduces exposure of the surrounding garden compared with spraying the foliage focuses the attention toward the poison ivy roots. Late summer into fall is particularly effective because the plant is naturally moving carbohydrates toward its roots. Penn State specifically recommends this method for poison ivy growing among trees and shrubs. Whatever method she chooses, persistence is the key. Think of it less as killing the leaves and more as starving or removing the underground energy system. One important caution I would add is dead poison ivy is still poison ivy. Urushiol remains in stems and roots after the plant dies. She should wear gloves, long sleeves, pants, and eye protection, clean tools afterward, and never burn the vines. Pulling mature vines out of trees can also shower the person with urushiol-containing material, so it is generally better to cut the vine and allow the upper portion to die in place.

@Susan S For the crape myrtle, I would cut with garden scissors fairly close to the ground and then hand paint with a small $1 paint brush from the hardware store, that way she will be very selective.

@Sarah Lauren Personally I would not use freely, I would use to address an issue but can be very effective. How and when do you use it?

@Sarah Lauren perfect...

I can relate to this. I have always leaned toward practical and comfortable rather than spending much time deciding what to wear. Once I find something that works, I tend to stick with it. A couple pairs in the wash, a couple pairs ready to wear, and I am good. There is something nice about having gardening clothes that are simply part of the routine. They are comfortable, already broken in, and you do not have to think twice about kneeling in the dirt, brushing against a tree, or getting caught in the rain. Everything you need is in the same familiar pockets every day. I spent 25 years in a suit coat and tie. They still hang in the closet now and one set will probably go to heaven with me, although they do not get much use these days. I think you have the right idea. After ten years, though, those T-shirts have probably earned their retirement. Black with lime green sounds like a worthy next generation.

@Frances Scully Simplest for me and very effective in building soil life is a small indoor worm farm... handles the kitchen waste well and creates garden gold as an extract.

@Frances Scully Many online places. I built a simple worm farm out of two $10 lowes totes and come coco coir... around $100 to get started with the worms...