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The Bike Fit Academy
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33 contributions to The Bike Fit Academy
8d •
I want to become a bikefitter, but...
...how do I navigate the overwhelming entry phase as someone who is about to change careers? I felt the need to write a bit more here because there's just so much going on in my head, so it may take a few minutes. Bikefitting is one of the most delicate and difficult unoffical crafts imho. On one side it's fairly easy to call yourself a bikefitter. On the other hand, you're responsible for other people's health and fun on the bike. You need to know both bike mechanics as well as human anatomy/biomechanics and have a VERY good eye for it. Here in Germany it's super hard to get into the craft the right way (learning directly from a proven expert who actually knows about the human body), because little to no bikefitters want to train newbies. The amount of lone wolves is huge because everyone kinda fears competition. I'm exploring the scene here for around a year now and it seems there are two sorts of fitters: those who fully rely on their eye of the human body and adjust bikes from there with a lot of gut feeling and those who are super into measurements and data. One side says 'the less someone knows about the craft the more data he has', the other side says 'without data it's all just guesswork'. Now, I would get the chance to start out working and learning as a bikefitter in a local bike shop. They primarily use Smartfit for bike sizing and some old-school-ish saddle pressure system. I'm still on the fence whether or not I should start there. In my mind I feel like I need to learn from someone who is far more advanced. On the other side, I need to actually start DOING it, because I'm looking for opportunities for a whole year now. Also, starting out very small and low-level could be a great opportunity to grow and evolve, bring new tools and knowledge into the studio etc. Problem is, and this overwhelms me a lot, that by starting out with real people, there is so incredibly much knowledge and experience that I'm still missing that it just feels WRONG on so many levels to even take on clients. They pay good money and expect a certain service. I have huge respect to the craft and don't want to harm anyone by overlooking important biomechanical aspects. I don't want to become one of those fitters who claim they are highly experienced but in reality do a shitty job. However, not starting means getting stuck in theory forever, and starting out means probably making horrible mistakes.
2 likes • 5d
I started my bike fitting business a bit over two years ago after searching for and doing several online bike fit training courses, doing some certificates in anatomy and fitness, and starting an exercise science degree at my local university. I've been riding MTB and road as an adult for about 15 years. I was still worried about being taken seriously and establishing credibility so that I could feel comfortable working with clients. I realised that I had to just start doing it after complying with the basic business regulations and insurance requirements. No-one is going to hold your hand and ease you into it. John Higgins, a very experienced bike fitter at FitKit Systems in the USA told me to open the doors and invite people in for free bike fits until I felt confident enough to ask for money. Be honest with people and tell them that you are trying to gain experience. As long as you take the measurements of their current position before you start adjusting anything you or they can always put it back the way it was if they don't like it. If you think they need new components like handlebars or saddles make sure you can explain why you think that. Eventually you will need a large stock of components to be able to provide the right component for every fit, but in the early stages you can suggest the client buys the brand they prefer and you'll help them change it or recommend a mechanic. Most people are very tolerant as long as you can justify your recommendations and back it up with a promise to help them put it back the way it was if it goes wrong. First thing to do is go to the International Bike Fitting Institute website and look for other IBFI members in your area or country. They might be more willing to offer advice than other bike fitters. That will also give you a better idea of who is operating in your area already, although only a small percentage of fitters are IBFI accredited. You should also look at the IBFI website to find accredited training programs that will provide truly useful bike fitting knoweldge and count towards your future IBFI membership if you choose to join.
Jul 10 •
Long legs / short torso fit problem
Hi everyone, I’m looking for some input from people who understand road bike geometry and long-distance bike fit. My basic problem: I’m very long-legged with a comparatively short torso. I’m about 193 cm tall with roughly a 98 cm inseam. I currently ride a 2023 Scott Addict RC in XXL. Current bike / setup: - Scott Addict RC XXL, 606 mm stack (+10mm spacer) / 410 mm reach - 0 mm offset seatpost - saddle pushed all the way forward - 110 mm stem - fairly aggressive position The weird thing is: the bike can feel okay only when set up quite aggressively. Simply raising the front end does not automatically help — if the bars get too high, I get neck issues. I’m quite flexible in the hip, so I can handle a pretty low front. So I don’t think I’m just looking for a relaxed endurance/upright position. I may need something that is still low/racey, but shorter in effective reach. My goal is not a short test-ride fit. I want a position that works for rides longer than 3 hours, ideally something closer to an ultra/endurance road fit: sustainable power, stable pelvis, no constant pressure migration, and no “I fixed one pain point but created the next one” situation. Right now it feels like every adjustment just moves the problem: - saddle pressure / soft tissue / sitbone issues depending on saddle and tilt - forefoot/toe numbness or foot pressure depending on cleat/shoe/insole setup - neck/upper body tension if the cockpit solution goes too far in the wrong direction - if I make the bike more “comfortable” in one area, another area starts to complain So I’m starting to wonder whether the frame geometry itself is part of the problem. Maybe I’m compensating for a too-long effective cockpit by running the saddle very far forward and using a 0 mm setback post, instead of having a frame that lets me sit in a more natural pedalling position while still keeping the reach manageable. One bike that looks interesting on paper is the Pinarello Dogma F, especially size 59.5. If I have the numbers right, it seems to be around 613 mm stack and 393 mm reach, which would be much shorter than my Addict RC while keeping a similar front-end height. That sounds potentially ideal for my proportions.
1 like • Aug 5
@Marc R I suspect the reason that the 90mm stem felt so twitchy is that, as you have surmised, there is too much weight forward of the BB and the bike is unbalanced. A 20mm change to stem length will have a noticeable effect on steering input angles, but should not make a bike feel dangerous to ride if the distribution of weight over the front and rear wheels is otherwise within the manufacturers design parameters. On the trainer, I'd start with the existing stem unless you've already changed it. Save a bit of time and hassle and let your hands rest on the bars at whatever point provides a comfortable reach and don't worry about landing on the hoods. Worry about having your hands comfortably on the hoods AFTER you've sorted saddle for/aft. Once you have sorted saddle fore/aft take note of where your hands prefer to be on the bars with your upper body in a comfortable posture. Measure the distance from the webbing between thumb and forefinger/index finger, and the point at which the hood turns upward. That is about how much you need to reduce the reach. Add or subtract a bit from that measurement depending on how aggressive or relaxed you want your final position to be. Note that it helps to have another person there to observe your posture. When I've asked customers to do this I sometimes see that they are still lifting and protracting their shoulders and locking out their elbows despite saying that they feel relaxed. They are conditioned to compensate for excessive reach and that makes self-diagnosis difficult. The balance test definitely is biased towards a forward saddle position for riders with low upper body mass. Overall weight distribution aside, consideration needs to be given to the engagement from front chain muscles such as quads and hip flexors versus rear chain muscles such as hamstrings, glutes and calves. If your pedal stroke feels like it's all quads then that is another clue that your saddle needs to go back. How far back is something you'll need to test and may be influenced by the terrain in which you ride.
1 like • Aug 5
@Marc R was the "professional bikefitter a Specialized dealer and/or RETUL certified fitter by any chance? Did the fitter have a pro or elite/A grade competition background? Is there a reason why you use the PRO Stealth Team saddle? It has it's place, but it seems to be used far too often by people who "just can't get comfortable on any other saddle". I would put good money down that probably 8 out of 10 of those people can't sit on a conventional saddle because their overall position is waaaay off. The Stealth tolerates a very forward sitting position because of the width of its nose. It is designed to facilitate this for specific uses. Due to the fact that it allows people to sit so far forward, I believe it ends up being used as a bandaid to mask reach issues. Although those who choose it as a last resort probably haven't considered shortening the reach of the bike. One of the downsides of the Stealth is that it has such a slow taper from widest point to the nose that most people can't sit towards the rear due to lots of thigh rub. That simply reinforces the forward sitting position and the underlying reach issue never gets addressed. However, if you're using it specifically because you want to ride in a very aggressive position then that makes sense. My understanding is that it is an early short nose design created to bridge the gap between conventional road saddles and TT style saddles. The gebioMized Stride Road and Specialized Power EVO are very similar. The Wove M8 is another designed to bridge that gap, but takes a different approach to the shape.
Jul 21 •
Are those Hips Swaying?
I did a fit yesterday with a gentleman who is getting back into cycling. He has had a hip replacement and a partial knee replacement. We tested his flexibility. He has tight hamstrings. More flexible on surgical side than non surgical side. The non surgical side is showing moderate osteoarthritis. From the side he angles look good but from the front this looks like his saddle is too high. From the back there is no feeling of hip swaying or side to side movement. I will be spending a bit of time with this person and could use a few good brains to help get him back to riding.
0 likes • Jul 23
Hi @Michael Burton. I'm a bike fitter in Australia and I'm happy to offer a few thoughts. Note that I don't do video based bike fits as a camera and fixed viewing angles miss a lot of the nuances and subtle indicators that an in-person fit can detect. The gentleman's leg extension in the photos looks OK and his overall posture looks pretty relaxed. Need to view both left and right sides though as asymmetries and compensations can mean one side looks good while the other is a long way from good. Which side did he have the hip replaced? Which side did he have the partial knee replacement? Do he exhibit any favouritism on or off the bike? That appears to be a fairly short stem. Has that been changed as part of the fit? Have you conducted a balance test to confirm that saddle fore/aft is about right? He is carrying a bit of weight in his torso so that will be very important. Have you tested for a leg length difference? Nothing obvious in the photos or video, but it's a routine assessment, especially with a history of injury or surgery in the pelvis and lower limbs. I use the supine leg length test to assess any overall difference and then determine how much of that difference is femur or tibia. Quick and easy to do and can save a lot of time and headaches trying to figure out why you can get someone close to good, but never quite right. Then consider shimming. Doesn't always have to be 100% of the leg length difference. I usually start at 50%. Also worth assessing foot and lower limb strength and stability on and off the bike if you have any concerns after satisfying yourself that saddle height and fore/aft are about right. Arch support and heel wedging, either together or on their own, can do amazing things to resolve instability and improve leg function, tracking and pelvic stability. Have you had the gentleman pedal backwards slowly to assess possible hip impingement/range of motion limitations at the top of the pedal stroke? Also useful to assess reach to the pedals as people tend to be much more sensitive to both of those things when pedalling backwards.
Jun 23 •
Burning Feet!
I have a burning sensation in the soles of my feet, pressure pad area over the cleats when I do approx. 60mes plus. I use G8 insoles and have done for a few years now. Does anyone think replacing them with new would help or is there something else I could try?
0 likes • Jul 19
Hi @John Fulton. Apologies for not seeing your last 5 comments, but I'm only on here every now and then unless I get a notification, and I hadn't received any notifications for this conversation. I think you need to use the @"insert name" tag for the person to be notified. Great to hear that you may have discovered the issue with your feet. Bummer that it seems to be due to the material used in the white/white shoes though. Nothing to do about that other than try to sell them or use for short rides only. As for lifting the heel of your insoles, I use insole blanks from FORM Bikefitting UK. They sell them as two sheets of approx 2mm thick firm black foam that can be cut to size to fill a shoe that has too much (typically forefoot) volume. I use them for all sorts of things as the thickness, feel and durability of the foam makes them very versatile. That's what I'd use. You could probably find an equivalent material from a craft shop or similar for a lot less money, but the FORM insole blanks are my default material. As an FYI I also use it to smooth the transition from bar to hoods for some people who suffer from ulnar nerve compression. I place an appropriately sized piece under the rubber of the hood to ensure there's no dip from the bar to the hood surface. Some bars don't play nice with anything other than a perfectly horizontal hood surface and most people need a bit of upward tilt to avoid cocking their wrists too much. It can also be used to modify the feel of the hoods and obtain a shape that sits more comfortably in some people's hands. I do that on my road bike with my 105 7000 series levers to create a more rounded surface that really fills my hand. I'm a sometimes L to often XL glove size BTW. On my gravel bike with GRX levers I add a bit for cushioning as I find the GRX levers and grip pattern feel a little 'harsh' under my hands.
1 like • Jul 21
Hi @John Fulton. White BOA dials in the Lake range typically signify a synthetic upper material for models that are offered in both leather and microfibre, such as the CX238/CX239 and CX333. Black dials have always signified leather uppers in those models as far as I am aware. Some models, however, such as the CX178 (formerly 177), CX219 and the new CX190 and CX400 are only available with synthetic (microfibre) uppers and they have black dials. So the opposite is not true and you can't rely on black dials to signify a leather upper across the entire Lake range. Unfortunately, you do need to read the fine print for Lake models that are offered in both leather and microfibre. The 'Description' section for the CX238 and CX239 for example, mentions that the shoe is available in leather or Clarino Microfibre, but not that it's specific to a particular colour option. To know which colour is microfibre you need to pay attention to the small text above the colour option when you choose that option before then choosing size. At least that's how it works on all the official Lake websites in each region around the world. I have mentioned to Lake in the past that it's confusing and people are going to get caught out. I've had to correct a few customers who've asked for white/white shoes and not realised that they were microfibre.
May 27 •
People with long torso / short legs — how do you approach frame sizing and weight distribution?People with long torso / short legs
I bought a smaller frame and I'm working through the fit right now — longer stem, saddle setback, the whole thing. My proportions: long torso, short legs. My current problem is a bit of a double bind: I'm sitting too upright (too much pressure on the saddle) and at the same time I have too much pressure on my hands. I think it's a posture issue rather than pure geometry — weight isn't being supported through the core and ends up distributed badly in both directions. A few things I'm trying to figure out: Frame size Is "size down + longer stem + more setback" actually the right approach for this body type? Or does it create problems elsewhere (stack, handling)? Saddle setback More setback increases effective reach, so you need even more stem to compensate. Has anyone found a clean way to balance this? Drop Does a long torso mean you need more or less drop than average? I'm genuinely unsure here. Curious whether others with this body type have found a consistent approach.
0 likes • Jul 17
Hi @Steph S. I'm a bike fitter in Australia and I pop in to the Academy from time-to-time and try to help out. I did see your post a little while ago, but I haven't had time to address it as there are a lot of unknowns without an in-person assessment and potentially a lengthy conversation. If you're still seeking assistance I'll do my best via text. I agree that if you are sitting too upright as a result of a low saddle height relative to handlebar stack height, you are likely to suffer a number of abnormal pressure and weight distribution related symptoms. What is the current stem length and angle and what is the reach of the handlebar? What saddle are you using and what is it's length from nose to tail? Have you measured saddle setback from the BB and if so, what is it? Are you using an offset seatpost and if so, what is the offset? Where on the saddle rails is the clamp? Is there scope for fore/aft adjustment? I'll try to provide basic answers to the questions you have posed above. Re frame size; handling can definitely be affected if your weight is distributed in a manner that isn't consistent with the bike's geometry or design philosophy. As a very rough guide, you'd normally want your centre of mass slightly behind the BB for a road bike. Saddle setback should be governed largely by weight distribution with attention being paid to glute and hamstring versus quad engagement. Adjustments to the front end and overall reach will flow from that. Re saddle setback; see above re frame sizing. Once you settle on an ideal saddle setback using a combo of the balance test and assessing glute and hamstring versus quad engagement you can then evaluate posture, eg, pelvic rotation, lumbar, thoracic and cervical spine extension, shoulder position, arm extension and wrist angle. Front end is then adjusted to achieve ideal posture and alleviate discomfort. More saddle setback usually means shorter stem though unless you were previously very 'cramped' on the bike.
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@jason-hurst-3364
Owner and bike fitter at The Bike Fitter on the Gold Coast, Australia
Active 5d ago
Joined Jan 23, 2026
Runaway Bay QLD 4216
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