It’s definitely helpful to have that information in your terms and conditions, but I will definitely assume no one reads it. This is one of those things we’re over-communicating is the key. When it comes to small breakable things like picture frames, knickknacks, crystal sculptures, etc… I asked that they move anything of value or fragile before we arrive so that there’s nothing to slow us down and so that we don’t break anything that may be valuable. Unfortunately, even if you ever communicate, you will often arrive and find something in your way. It’s up to your discretion how you handle this situation, but if I ever do move things, I usually take a photo so that I can put things somewhat closely back to how they were if it won’t take long. Otherwise, assuming have communicate communicated well, they’ll understand and not expect you to put things back. I’d personally rather go ahead and move things out of the way temporarily than to have to wait around for them to let me work. If there’s a large bed, armoire, TV, etc. that is too heavy to safely be tilted so that I can get at least a foot and a half of clearance to squeeze through, often times the homeowners are completely understandable and don’t care for getting the window cleaned behind it. I’ll let them know. I let them know I’ll still clean the outside, but just make sure they understand. I personally usually err on the side of doing more, so if I need to move couches (just slide them forward far enough to fit through) or lamps, or table tables, etc., I just suck it up and do it. Occasionally, there are elderly or more fragile customers who I try to be extra clear that I’ll take care of everything. Would I try to avoid the most is for a customer to get a feeling of anxiety every time I’m gonna come clean their windows because they feel like they have to have the whole house pristine before I arrive. My ultimate goal is a friction free experience so that they don’t have to think twice about booking me again.

@Matthew Keehn Darius is spot on about F9 BARC. I usually buy it from Window Cleaning Resource because of the free shipping. https://windowcleaner.com/products/f9-barc-concrete-rust-remover?sca_ref=4122445.Dz6DIiYfKo Alternatively, you can use a number of different restroom mover chemicals. Muriatic acid is the cheap version, it can be a little bit more risky and has a higher chance of staining or retching the concrete, but I’ve used it on rusting many times. F9 BARC definitely works better and is more stable. I would treat it with bleach and clean the concrete first, then follow instructions on the jug to remove any remaining stains. F9 products has an app called “the digital cookbook.” That can be very helpful while using their products https://front9restoration.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/F9-Cookbook-PRINT-BOOK-REVOct21-HR.pdf

@Carl Vereen thanks for sharing a little bit about yourself, Carl! Definitely looking forward to seeing you succeed, hopefully I can keep providing content and tools to help you along the way. Never hesitate to reach out with a question or for feedback!

Hey Jeremy, welcome to the group! Prices can vary pretty drastically, but from the different conversations I’ve had the price per pane (for one side) would be $4-$5 on average for average sized panes, or $8-10 per pane for one side of larger panes (like sliding glass doors). Tracks and screens can be as high as $5 total for a set, or $2-3 each. That brings the total price for an entire window with 2 panes, tracks and screen, to around $20. From any polling I’ve done in the past most guys say they charge around $15-20 for a window, while if I look on TikTok everyone will say they charge $25-35 per window, but hard to verify if the TikTok window cleaners are bluffing or not. I know for certain that some guys are pulling close to $25 per window in the right markets, but I’m the highest price in my area by far at $20. Just starting out, I would use $20 per window unit with everything included, or $10 for outside only, and work from there. After you send out quotes to 20 houses look at your close rate. If you land around 50-70% of the jobs then your prices are probably pretty good for now. If you land less, lower your prices or fix your sales approach, but if you land more than 70% you may want to consider raising prices. Just make sure to track why you’re hourly income is at, as well as the close rate, so you can adjust accordingly.

@Jeremy Azoulay I can clean 10 screens in about 5-10 min, have to remove them to clean the glass anyways. But charge however you’d like, there’s no rules 👌 My minimum is $189 for outside only, or $279 min for both in and out.

I’d want to use an 8gpm machine (bigger would be fine too, but 4gpm might struggle to get chemical that high. A 12v system might be able to reach if there’s absolutely no wind, but with jobs this large it would make sense to invest in an 8gpm machine if you don’t already have one. Only cold water is necessary (as in no hot water burner). Take note: you would not want to use high pressure directly in stucco as it could damage the paint. Softwash for sure. I believe the x-jet M5 DS Twist nozzle would shoot high enough and be able to get a hot enough mix for the darker spots, but it wouldn’t hurt to get a shooter tip for the final rinse. I’d start with getting the glass wet, hit everyone with a lighter downstream mix (less than 1% bleach mix from dowsnstreaming). Then hit the darker spots with a hotter mix using the x-jet. While hitting the spots it’s important to make sure bleach doesn’t dry on the windows, so I’d go back and mist/rinse them sufficiently. Stucco can be a little stubborn with the organic growth, so very bad spots might take multiple chemical applications. 30-40 feet should definitely be doable without a lift though, as long as there’s no strange sections that would be otherwise difficult to reach