This is my first-ever bespoke suit, entrusted to the renowned master Błoński. For many months, I gathered knowledge and inspiration from male style influencers, articles, and photos on the Internet. Finally, the time came to “pull the trigger.”
My body:
- Quite short (5'8")
- Slim, slightly muscular (170 lbs)
- Large, bald head; long and muscular neck
- Slightly sloping shoulders (developed trapezius muscles)
- Straight posture
- Strongly muscular calves
Goals:
- A versatile, moderately formal suit, to be worn as a whole or broken down into parts.
- Maximum visual optimization of my figure (built shoulders, lots of elongating vertical and diagonal lines, elongation of the leg line).
Inspirations:
- Roman style — lightness at the bottom, structure at the top.
- Dark Academia aesthetics — for the color and lapels on the vest.
Color: very dark brown (actually dark rust) — in my collection instead of gray; resonates with my Dark Autumn color palette.
1. Single-breasted jacket
- Full canvas with a soft construction
- Notched lapels, 10 cm (suitable for a large head), slightly rounded
- Lapel in standard position, 90 degrees, aiming at the upper edge of the shoulders
- 2 buttons
- Elongated and fairly filled shoulders
- Rather classic length, but very open sides for optical leg lengthening
- Barchetta
- Flap pockets — probably tucked in most of the time
- Half lining for maximum breathability
2. Single-breasted vest
- Notched lapels (considering the width)
- 5 buttons, fairly low opening (subtle when the jacket is buttoned)
- Wide shoulder pads — considering them for more V shape rather than /\
- Number of pockets — TBD, I will definitely need at least 2, maybe 3
- Base material back
3. Pants (2 pairs)
- High waist
- Straight/Wide leg — I have powerful calves, and I want straight lines all the way down
- Side adjusters
- Single pleat — mainly to keep the crease
- No break
- No cuffs
I would be grateful for any advice and comments from you on these and other matters.
Below are a few photos from the first fitting: