Classic timeless shoes · Real Men Real Style Community

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Classic timeless shoes

I rarely get over to the shoe discussion but a recent exchange with

about three great shoes he inherited from his FiL inspired me. He got a horse bit black loafer, a burgundy captoe and a suede penny. Each of these shoes are absolute classics and have so many uses. In fact less popular today but nevertheless timeesss is a cordovan or oxblood (burgundy) leather. Because this color crosses over the hump between outfits that are brown tans or outfits that are blue/greys, it is the most versatile color shoe a man can have in his wardrobe. In doing a little inspirational research on Pinterest for some combos I thought I would share to the whole community if that’s alright Steven.

In American classic timeless menswear, shoes are much less restricted than in many parts of the world. The two perfect examples are the loafer and the brogue. In England for example loafers (especially thinner soled ones) are kind of impractical apparently because of the persistent rain as well as the un-even pavement and muddy ground (although this last issue i find a bit odd since many cities in Italy (home to the Gucci loafer) are older than England and have all kinds of surfaces like cobble stones etc). The loafer fits perfectly with the American comfort sensibility-: looser sack fit suit, full cut oxford shirts, button down collars (which are fine with a suit by the way) full leg double pleated trousers etc. while a loafer can be worn with a suit ( as can a button down oxford shirt), unquestionably they are a significantly less formal accessory. Furthermore there are suit loafers and sport coat loafers. This last aspect is dictated by whether the shoe has a moccasin toe(aka apron toe) or raised lake (aka welted toe.)

These descriptions can go down some weird rabbit holes-

https://shoegazing.com/2023/03/26/guide-types-of-apron-front-and-split-toe-seams/

Basically weejuns are more dressed down than Alden’s.

The other classic timeless American menswear shoe that is frequently worn with a suit is the wingtip brogue. This was so commonplace in my 50 years of menswear experience that I was surprised to learn that wasn’t so in other parts of the world. Because the Brogue (as well as the Blucher also known as the derby ) were designed for a military marching shoe, many people in the world outside the US still see it as a casual shoe not to be worn with tailored clothing. In the US it’s perfectly fine with a suit or sportcoat. (Again like the button down oxford and the classic raised lake penny or tassel it’s admittedly a step down in formality from a point collar, or an Oxford shoe )

The point of all of this is in classic American timeless footware there are conventions that have endured. These proven designs may have periods of waxing and waning in popularity, but they are NEVER OUT OF STYLE. You may have a particular affinity or disdain for one or the other and naturally that is a personal preference and if you dislike a shoe don’t buy it. But comments like monks or tassel loafers or penny loafers are ugly- who would wear a loafer with a suit, etc fly in the face of Classic timeless menswear. The best selection of shoes from one place that depict classic timeless footware is Ben Silver. The other is Alden shoes. j Press carries them

https://www.bensilver.com/View-all-shoes.html?srsltid=AfmBOorQ2JOKfm1ageNm7D-mTFnUlvooSd6JWurrESJJO5AATJZjzzut

https://jpress.com/collections/dress-shoes

https://www.aldenshop.com/collections/shoes

The easiest way to understand this is simply look at what Gary Cooper, Cary Grant, and Frank Sinatra etc were wearing during the golden age of menswear. My gut is that some of this misperception stems from the ever wise and never erring Internet🙄.

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