Hi Collin, way delayed on this but CF Tests are attached here. Next message will have goals (and probably way too much context 🙂)

This has been a challenging time-wise summer so my priorities shifted from endurance focus (initial plan) to maximizing limited time. This led to prioritizing things a bit differently this summer: 1. Since I was time poor, I leaned into full recovery for my finger -- had really bad case of tenosynovitis last year in the entire finger. It had mostly healed throughout the year, but was still lingering in my pip joint, so purposely kept volume quite low. Finger training focused on density hangs (open hand / drag with a 53 lb kettlebell) 3 x 30 sec approx 2x per week Climbing volume was way down, tended to focus on short, snappy sessions on hard boulders (~typically an hour) In some senses, feel off on my climbing, but my finger feels nearly 100% for the first time in about 18 months. 2. Leaned into flexibility / mobility work. Particularly, a pancake course from flexibilitypixie / nicks who is fantastic (not climbing focused), and i've seen major progress in end-of-range strength and have noticed it carry over on the wall. 3. Did not let strength training fall off. Generally 2 sessions / week. Bench press was particularly weak relative to my other lifts, so have more frequency with that. Generally two sessions A/ Deadlift / Bench / Weighted Face Pulls B/ Squat (currently Zercher) / Bench / Overhead Press My current goals are a bit in flux -- I had a sport trip planned that ended up getting postponed, so am focused more on bouldering at the moment. However, my primary outdoor goals do remain sport-climbing focused. So right now, focusing on power since my sessions are short, but will likely move into building back endurance in the fall. Hope you are well and look forward to finally joining the calls tomorrow!

(I unfortunately won’t be able to join the live call, but look forward to listening afterwards).

@Collin McGee Thanks so much. That was incredibly informative. Not looking forward to testing, but am looking forward to having results to use as baseline afterwards 🙂.

My two cents -- your finger strength is not going to change radically under any 9-week plan. We're playing a long-game. For me, the value is having a structured plan that integrates well with climbing. I'm in week 8 now, and here's what I've noticed. - Modest gains (more than I anticipated though) - My fingers feel healthy - My fingers feel strong - I feel good on the wall I now have a template and a method of finger training that doesn't tax my fingers in an unsustainable way. I have had multiple finger injuries over the years, and they absolutely suck and one step forward, three steps back gets really exhausting. We have to be super careful on loading our fingers, and this course has provided me the tools to properly manage load while still finding progress. I will likely cycle through this or variations on this for a long time to come. It's simple, I've found it effective, and it has helped me protect myself from overdoing it.

@Tore Johan Olaussen That’s awesome to hear! I’m staring at 50 in less than a year as well, and I’m determined not to lose any more time. I used to try to find the line, but now I’m more focused on feeling good and really trying to not focus so much on the near term.

@Collin McGee question on talon ball grip. Does the orientation matter? I have seen in Tyler’s demos that it looks like he is pulling the device with palm perpendicular to the ground (like an edge pull would be). Several of the devices I see (frictitious as an example) have the cord through the center which naturally orients your palm parallel to the ground. Does orientation matter? If it does, when pulling perpendicular, are you trying to resist the palm moving parallel to the ground? Or is the cord set up so that it naturally orients in that direction?

@Collin McGee thanks!

I haven’t used the tension edge for training, but I have devices from specialized masochism. He has a few different devices — I use both the Overcome and Resist edges (Resist is a half-crimp edge) regularly. They have customizable sizing and I’ve found they fit my hand better than any other device I’ve tried. He is super responsive to any questions you might have and I highly recommend. He’s also worth a follow on Instagram as he puts out a ton of educational content as well.