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Owned by Collin
Rock climbing training & education: stronger fingers, a stronger body to help prevent injury, and a better game plan to become a better climber.
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10 contributions to Rock Climbing Performance
15d •
Talon Grip Option
Hello everyone! Sharing a free, downloadable 3D print file for a Talon grip if anyone has a friend or access to a printer. Thank you Erik! https://www.printables.com/model/1391706-talon-grip-lumbrical-trainer
0 likes • 13d
@Stefano Primo Whoaaaaa, that’s really cool! I do not. But I can ask the IG world and maybe we can find someone
0 likes • 3d
@Mathias Zamęcki That handle and talon ball are awesome!!
5d •
Rapid pick ups
I was wondering about the rapid pick ups. Is it a pick up with half crimp or actively fingercurling the weight up?
0 likes • 3d
You "prepare" the half crimp and then rapidly pick up a light weight to training engaging quickly. The weight should be 30-50% of you one arm max finger effort. So it shouldn't feel heavy/
18d •
Precision on the exercice
Hello, I wondered about the block lifts - unlevel half crimp exercice. We are supposed to work based on a % of what we measured on day 1. But are we supposed to count the % based on our overhand finger test (which if I did correctly, was a yielding isometric) or based on our standing finger test (which i performed as an overcoming isometric) ? Best regards, Elorn
0 likes • 15d
@Elorn Pecorari you won’t regret it! 👊
1 like • 13d
@Tore Johan Olaussen yes yes, that was the original intention. A comment or so above I was describing all the option to be thorough about nuance. But yes, curl off of the OISO numbers and pick up off of the YISO
Feb 23 •
Welcome!
Use this discussion thread to post questions about the program or just to say hello! I will be checking in here to answer questions. Feel free to directly message me as well!
0 likes • 18d
@Hugo Lopez please do and let me know if that helps!
0 likes • 13d
@Stefano Primo yep, those are totally good spots! Lots of people that I work with now like to do it right before climbing too. All depends on the individual, goals, etc. just don’t do right after climbing because you’ll be too tired, everywhere else seems to work just fine!
23d •
Why a force gauge and which one?
What are the benefits of using a force gauge in the 9-week program? Does a force gauge replace a hangboard or is it used in conjunction with a hangboard? I read about both of the recommended force gauges. Wondering which one y’all prefer.
0 likes • 19d
Great question! The force gauge accurately sets your target for training so you know without guess that you are working hard enough to see change. It also allows you to test yourself to see if things are actually improving! And for training it can easily replace picking things off the ground in a more precise training way. These days they are all about the same and it comes down to where you are from really for shipping. The forceboard is US and the Tindeq is Norway. I can upload some videos to show you the interfaces a bit to help check them out more!
1 like • 19d
@Geno Smith correct! The fingers only “see” force and effort. They have no idea if it’s chained up, weight off the ground, or a hardboard. Those tools are great and are useful to switch things up but realistically, as far as your muscle and tendons care, the gauge is all you need!
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