@Tore Johan Olaussen Yep! The beauty of strength and power is that it takes so little volume to create change in the body, and at that volume the fatigue accumulated and fatigue carry over should be minimal. So, worst cast you can always do those before climbing. Now, if your wanted a serious finger curl session to "maximize" the strength, maybe that looks like 5-6 reps of 3-5 reps? then maybe that would deserve its own day but that volume might also never be necessary unless you are trying to break a plateau, etc.
@Jack Barraclough Great question. That is why I created the https://c4hpdatabase.com/ to try to collect enough info on that. But, the same would go if we were trying to make sense of it. You would want to see your RFD/Peak Force (the "Rate Force Ratio", DSI in other sports/limbs, but same same for climbing fingers) and then you compare that ration to your bodyweight. And I actually probably have some papers read recently on this and can try to pull them up and plug them into the RFD section of the classroom chapters. Once I get all the papers organized a bit I will see if one has any charts/data in there. They will usually have some sort of beginner vs. elite climber, etc. comparison
Hello everyone! Sharing a free, downloadable 3D print file for a Talon grip if anyone has a friend or access to a printer. Thank you Erik! https://www.printables.com/model/1391706-talon-grip-lumbrical-trainer
@Daniel Stasik great question! I would say that the palm closer to parallel would be the ideal way since it would then be "evenly loading all of the fingers", especially in the same way. The palm perpendicular isn't wrong either, just that the thumb may be working differently than the other fingers? The lift is probably going to reflect the yielding isometric style. And simple just trying to crush the talon (no lift) would be you overcoming iso version.
@Collin McGee I have the Tension Ergo Edge. It’s pretty deep at 25 mm. I like it, but do you have an unlevel grip you like more for the finger strength program?
I agree with @Daniel Stasik about specialized masochism edges. They fit like a glove and he puts a ton of effort and science into making them. I do have quite the collection so I can post a photo later with links to them all
Use this discussion thread to post questions about the program or just to say hello! I will be checking in here to answer questions. Feel free to directly message me as well!
@Stefano Primo Hello! Thank you so much for joining! And even if you choose the crag more, having a tindeq out there will help you warm up better and get your training in more effectively while you climb. It really is an amazing investment these days. Even just the cheaper, low capacity one