Looking for advice! · Next Grade Academy

Looking for advice!

Alright friends! This is my current project a V7 with pretty delicate moves on a vertical wall. I know the intended beta, I have done all the moves in isolation, but am having trouble with the crux.

My problem is my left hand. The hold can really only fit my index and middle finger with my thumb overtop to full crimp, it’s 8-10mm deep, and slopes outward slightly. So while it’s good, it’s not QUITE as good as you’d like. The hold that I’m reaching too is similarly small. And between them is a huge red sloper from another problem that pushes your upper body away from the all.

I’ve found that keeping my left elbow high and tucked as close to the wall as possible really helps stay on the wall, but once I reach around the red sloper and catch that other crimp, my left pops off. I have climbed up to hold that position as if I had done the move properly, so I know it’s doable, I just can’t quite figure out what I’m missing.

TIA!

4 comments