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Owned by Patryk

Smart Athletes Polska

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4 contributions to Next Grade Academy
Wrist injury
@Mike Vert @Daniel Podsiadlo I think I have an overuse injury which I have a hard time rotate my wrist inwards and outwards, more so inwards. I know I need to rest but is there a way to heal faster lol. I tape my wrist and it seem to helps a little. Maybe also advise prevention for future me haha.
1 like • 18d
Hi Huy, sad to hear about another victim of overuse. Wrists are sometimes pretty tricky and rehab always depends on type of injury, which structures are overused, maybe some tears. I won’t give you any specific advice without more info about it but I recommend going to PT first. In case of prevention, the best is strength training of wrist flexors and extensors, also keeping the ability to dorsiflex your wrist. Tape may help in some cases, especially at the beginning but not use it too much. If you want proffesional advice and full plan of rehab/prehab feel free to contact me priv.
Looking for advice!
Alright friends! This is my current project a V7 with pretty delicate moves on a vertical wall. I know the intended beta, I have done all the moves in isolation, but am having trouble with the crux. My problem is my left hand. The hold can really only fit my index and middle finger with my thumb overtop to full crimp, it’s 8-10mm deep, and slopes outward slightly. So while it’s good, it’s not QUITE as good as you’d like. The hold that I’m reaching too is similarly small. And between them is a huge red sloper from another problem that pushes your upper body away from the all. I’ve found that keeping my left elbow high and tucked as close to the wall as possible really helps stay on the wall, but once I reach around the red sloper and catch that other crimp, my left pops off. I have climbed up to hold that position as if I had done the move properly, so I know it’s doable, I just can’t quite figure out what I’m missing. TIA!
Looking for advice!
2 likes • Apr 18
I think maybe try it with slimly better momentum, when you grab hold you falling off already, so before move try with a little bit more swing to hold. Second thing is to try move your right leg more to the right side, a little less barn door.Let me now if that makes sense
Climbing advice that helped me climb harder.
- When I don't send, I always ask "What am I going to do different next time" - If I am stuck on a move, I adjust my feet. Even if it is 1cm. - Not sending indicates I'm progressing. I can climb V0s all day but I will learn nothing. I want to fall so I can learn. This is how I run my brain when climbing, it helps me get the most out of sessions. Hopefully it can help you too. P.S. Route planning video is in the works now! Thanks for all your votes last weekend!
1 like • Apr 16
Max weight hang on 20mm probably the best one
0 likes • Apr 17
It depends on routes 😅 if someone has weak fingers then probably yes but if someone has average fingers then it mostly depends on routes. I tested for example one women who climb 8a and here fingers where shit, like 50% of body weight, a lot of beginners has that much. But she climbs overhang routes on good hold and it is enough.
Hi everyone
Just some intro of me. I live in Poland in Wroclaw where I train indoor on flow climbing space where I also work. In 3h long trip from Wroclaw are a lot of nice crags and I mostly climb in this area. I had goal for this year to climb my first 8a, but I done it already on my first climbing trip this year to Sicily, so now just add some 8a’s and maybe improve in slabs (of course suck at these). I climb since 2020 and I love it for the community and nature and that it is so demanding both physically and mentally.
1-4 of 4
Patryk Pietrań
2
6points to level up
@patryk-pietran-8378
Owner of Physiotherapy practice. Trying to give my best to the patients.

Active 17m ago
Joined Apr 14, 2025
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