Activity
Mon
Wed
Fri
Sun
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
What is this?
Less
More

Memberships

SYNARCHY

131 members • Free

Syntropic Sunlands w/ Milan

138 members • Free

DP
Dryland Permaculture

84 members • Free

Food Forest Family (FREE)

3.7k members • Free

7 contributions to Syntropic Sunlands w/ Milan
Infestation Block of Acacias
After a year and a half of thinking about it -and after visiting Scott Hall on his farm, as well as the Permadynamics family in New Zealand - I finally took the leap and planted an infestation block of Acacia saligna. In this video, I am breaking down what Infestation actually means, and why it can be such a powerful lever - especially in brittle climates (Arid, Semi-arid or Mediterranean climates) Infestation isn’t a standalone method. It’s the first step in a broader framework called Successional Accumulation, a concept developed and coined by Scott Hall. The process unfolds in these three stages: - Infestation - Stabilisation - Succession We’ll dive deeper into each of these steps here on the platform as we go ! What I’ve found is that this approach is far more practical at scale than trying to plant everything all at once - especially when you’re limited in water, amendments, or access. And Scott covers his experience with it on his platform. It’s a way to work with constraints instead of fighting them, and it can significantly reduce costs while setting up a long-term resilience strategy. I’d really love to hear your thoughts. What species have you seen that could play a similar role in your climate ?
2 likes • 14d
This is a really interesting concept but wouldn't you be able to generate way more biomass using anuals, like a mix of sudan grass with beans or similar? That's was my plan, through summer have sunflower sudan and some legume, cut everything in october and transplant eucs, acacias and casuarinas. Although I think i won't be able to plant anything before summer 😢
A Tip to Prevent Weeding - Video Filmed in February
The Fava Bean Trick ! Fava beans are great for smothering weeds, and they sprout easily with the first rains. In this video, I show how I use them - and how much easier they make the work. No need to get on your knees pulling grasses in the first year. You get 2 cuts with them, and each cut took me 20min/100m/1 person. It's really not that much work - about 2 and a half hours for these 3 rows of 240m each. By the time they phase out, it’s already Summer here in the Mediterranean, so there’s basically no need to weed anymore. Then when the rains return, your rows should be established enough that weeding becomes a minimal task. You might need a bit of weeding in year two if your trees haven’t grown enough - but in my experience, one more pass is usually enough - cutting them, not even uprooting them. After that, the trees outcompete the grasses and take over. What other plants do you think could do a similar job? I’m thinking artichokes or cardoons could work really well - but they’d need to be started as seedlings.
1 like • 16d
Cool idea. Would it be bad to just have more straw in the middle? Like instead of the two strips of straw with the empty treeline in the middle , also have mulch there and the seedlings sticking out of it. Would that be bad for the plants or just harder to mantain?
Just sowed my first batch of Acacia saligna in an air-prune bed 🌱
First time using an air prune bed, so I’m curious to see how root development compares to traditional trays. The goal is to have strong seedlings ready for transplanting into the land by early October. I’m working in a Mediterranean climate (Mallorca), so timing is pretty critical for survival through next summer. Would love to hear from anyone who has experience with air-prune beds: Anything to watch out for in the early stages? Maybe keep it covered with plastic until germination since nights are still cold?
Just sowed my first batch of Acacia saligna in an air-prune bed 🌱
1 like • Mar 23
@Scott Gallant I got a bunch of them from roadside trees , but also got some from https://theoriginalgarden.com/ i don't know if they ship outside of Spain tho
0 likes • 20d
Little update on the acacias. I have also started to sow eucalypts and casuarinas in seed trays, i plan on 4 trays of each
Land preparation
Hey everyone 👋 I’m noticing there’s a lot of great content on syntropic agroforestry design and succession, but much less on land preparation before planting, especially in Mediterranean contexts. I’d love some practical input on what you actually do before the first trees go in: • Is subsoiling always needed? For which soil types, and how do small growers even access one? • Do you add compost or manure at the start in planting lines? • Any experience with ash or rock dust early on, or better to let biology do the work? • Does a single initial plowing ever make sense in compacted Mediterranean soils? If you had to rank the most important interventions at the beginning, what would they be? Curious to hear real-world experiences (successes and failures), especially across different Mediterranean soil types. Thanks! 🌱
1 like • Jan 28
@Milan Marquis Thanks a lot for this really appreciate you taking the time to break it down. The priority list is especially helpful when working with limited resources and trying to stay on budget. knowing what’s a must vs what’s optional makes a big difference. Quick clarifications I’m still not understanding: - Isn’t a rotovator essentially the same as plowing? - If both are used, would you subsoil first and then rotovate, or the other way around? For context, my site is an abandoned almond monoculture. The trees all died (likely disease), but it hasn’t been totally dead soil, neighboring sheep 🐑 have been grazing it. The soil is clay mixed with rocks, quite shallow, with bedrock even at the surface in some spots, which is why I’m unsure whether subsoiling is even a realistic option. Thanks again this is super useful.
0 likes • Jan 29
@Milan Marquis Thanks a lot man, really appreciate you taking the time to break all that down 🙏 super helpful. I still haven’t measured everything properly, but the system will probably end up around 350–450 m of lines total. I’m lucky on the manure side: I’ve got friends who race horses, so I should be able to get horse manure fairly easily. I already own a rotovator, and I’m planning to get a broadfork, since subsoilers are hard to find here on the island and pretty expensive. The rough plan for now is: - First desbrozar (clear the vegetation 😅) - Then mark out the lines, around 30 m long x 50-60cm and 6 m apart - Hire an excavator to make mini-swales and use the excavated soil to build a berm on the line (i feel like money spent here is worth it) - Use the broadfork where possible, then rotovate and spread some manure I want to have all this done by late March, so that until late october (when I plan to transplant trees) I’ll have time to run a couple of green manure flushes. I will plant my support species in air-prune beds ASAP, so they’re ready to go in when the time comes. Thanks again, solid advice 👊
Powerhouse Plants for the Mediterranean Climate
Electing your plant species for your syntropic system is a very difficult process for many. It's this typical overwhelming process where you don't know which plants to choose, that's why I aimed at making it much easier for you; condensing it down to 30 plants that grow very fast. Bear with me, it doesn't include later succession species, but don't worry, it's much more important to elect the right species entering into the secondary phase of a forest rather than thinking too much about which species will come later, as you can plant these later anyway. Most important advice here, don't overthink it, use whatever species grows fastest in your context to establish your system ASAP. I've separated the low water needs plants from the moderate water needs from the high water needs plants - symbolized by the water droplets. To be clear this is about water requirements at establishment, many plants in the moderate water needs will become tough as nails over time but if not watered enough at establishment, they will die. As well, the pile of sand (only tagasaste) symbolizes the need of the plant to be in loose or sandy soil. The shovel means these plants require good decompaction to get a good headstart - meaning breaking down the hardpan in a clay compacted soil - ex: using a subsoiler. Also, the snowflake means that these plants are frost sensitive, typically when temperatures go lower than 2 degrees they can exhibit damage. these plants are truly meant for a mild Mediterranean climate - especially mild winters. Lastly, the successional role of these plants is added at the end : - Placenta : Short-lived - Usually about 5 years maximum within a Mediterranean syntropic system. They can reach maturity within 6 months to a year and provide the fastest growth at establishment of your system. - Pioneer - Secondary : Plants that consolidate the transition from scrubland to forest. They are fast-growing too - but not as much as the placenta plants, usually reaching maturity around year 2 or 3. They create these conditions for the secondary forest to take place by providing high amounts of biomass and shade for the secondary seedlings below.
Powerhouse Plants for the Mediterranean Climate
1 like • Jan 21
Super helpful 🤘
6 likes • Jan 22
[attachments]
1-7 of 7
Miquel Santandreu
3
44points to level up
@miquel-santandreu-duran-4201
🤘

Active 2d ago
Joined Jan 14, 2026