Project Highlights & Key Takeaways Light gray base created cloud effect in this pearl and off-white metallic combo. Solid pigments resist flow and can stick to the floor; remember to mix them into metallic or clear layers for better movement. After demoing tile, we patched with a slurry mix and then our pigmented MVB and finished with satin, high-wear urethane for durability. Key tip—highlight batches have about 20 minutes of pot life, so we ran 3 batches (12 kits = 36 gallons) for our 1,200 ft² install to keep things fresh and flowing. 1. Gray Base + White & Pearl Metallics = Layered Color Shift The light gray base isn’t just a neutral canvas—it bleeds through the pearl and white metallics to create unexpected hues and soft tonal shifts. This subtle interplay enhances depth and richness. 2. Solid Pigments Limit Fluidity Solids stick. When mixed directly into epoxy, they can weigh down the flow and freeze your design. To preserve dynamic movement, blend solids into clear or metallic epoxy layers—this encourages fluid dispersion and flow capability. 3. Tile Demo Needed Slurry Repair After tile removal, the floor had minor concrete damage. We repaired it with an epoxy slurry, ensuring a smooth and contiguous surface ready for decorative layering—a crucial step for both aesthetics and adhesion. 4. Durable Satin Urethane Finish for Foot Traffic Topped the project with a satin-textured, high-wear urethane. This clear topcoat delivers exceptional abrasion resistance, UV stability, and longevity, making it ideal for high-traffic church environments 5. Pot Life Awareness with Highlight Colors When working with metallic highlight mixes—especially over large areas like your 1,200 ft² project—time is tight. Pot life is often 20 minutes or less. We managed this by working in three batches of four kits each (2 pearl, 1 white, ½ white + highlights), totaling 12 kits (36 gallons). This kept each mix fresh and fluid across the surface. Products used: MatriX [email protected] for pricing & ordering

Hello all! I just went and did an estimate at Hideaway Pizza in downtown OKC. In the kitchen, somebody came a year ago and laid down some base epoxy/paint and put some type of silica sand or some type of grit in it. Looks terrible and is failing in spots. Hence the reason why they called me. They seem like they want to go with a flake floor. Obviously I’m gonna grind the old stuff off, but this is going to be a beast of a job. Lots of hand grinding lots of stuff to work around and have to do it at night during closed hours. Curious what you guys have done in restaurant kitchens? Products used? Flake or solid ? I’m feeling overwhelmed lol. Just want something that is going to look good, be functional for slippery area, and last them a good amount of time before resurfacing. Thank you for the wisdom!

I saw that some of you guys use SLO Go low odor. How is it? Does it really last 60 mins? I currently use Citadel UL 80. It's ok, live in SW Florida and sometimes it goes off but not too bad but want to try something different for bigger flooors.

My wife has been installing with me for 10 plus years. She now has gotten epoxy dermatitis, any recommendations besides quitting or steroids to lessen the effects?