Well my seat and guide machine has a plc issues see I just it’s time to buy a new machine. Was not the machine I wanted to buy first. But sometimes it’s about what you need. New machine will be nice thought.

My transmission in my 06 has a lot of end play, and I’m fairly certain that my input shaft bearing is on its way out. It makes a racket sometimes when the clutch is let out in nuetral which sounds like a grinding/whirring noise. Other times it’s fine. I’ve watched a ton of videos on long range gear, among other hobbyists , but I have two questions that the videos just don’t answer. I’m looking at a total rebuild kit from all state gear, it’s about 1250 cndn but it comes with all bearings, and all of the syncros, plus a shim kit for end play. Anyone recommend this? Transmission has never seen work and it’s got 340k on it, shifting is fine with no grinding as it is. Second, no one talks about end play specs including the service manual. I have been told you want to shim the primary and secondary shafts to a preload of 2 thousands positive. So you find zero with your shims then shim an extra 2 thousands. They say this makes the transmission much quieter and in turn allows for aluminum case expansion after heating up, allowing the end play to stay tight. Advice is appreciated :)

Well got part the floor done lol

A few months ago I went to start up the truck and was greeted by thumping noises coming out the intake. Upon inspection I found Cyl 2 intake pushrod shattered at the top alongside the exhaust push rod with a bend. I was giving it the beans leading up to this to clear up the engine as I run about 30-40% waste oil to diesel. I replaced the injector and crossover tube thinking it was an overfueling event. Now yesterday I was in the dump coasting without much throttle and then it started thumping out the intake. Again I pulled the valve cover to find the same cylinder had ate the push rod crown in the same exact way, but this time the exhaust rod was fine. I was able to pick out some of the shards and threw in another stock push rod then drove it 10mi back to my garage without any issues. I did overrev to 3k for a few seconds the day prior as I’m dealing with a shifting issue with the 47re (thinking it’s a tv cable or gov solenoid issue). I’m new to working on Cummins/diesels in general but have a fair amount of experience building engines. Today I’m going to inspect everything a little closer and was hoping to get some advice on what to check/consider. current game plan -verify valve height is similar to other cylinders -borescope #2 cylinder -double check lash -potentially buy another head/engine out of fear of bent valve (thinking it’s cheaper than getting a valve job/machining overhaul plus it’s a 53 block) -drink until I feel better about driving the truck Engine details -Ppump’d with mildy built 175hp pump (flow maxed, 3/4k gov springs, #0 plate) -103lb valve springs installed same time as Ppump -75hp injectors -Running Waste Motor Oil as fuel, 30%ish WMO usually -.010/.020 valve lash Happy Wednesday.

1997 Dodge Ram 3500 – 12-Valve Cummins (P7100) – Need Help Diagnosing I've been chasing a fuel-related issue for a while now, and here's the timeline. Original Symptoms - Truck would randomly stall when put into reverse. - Replacing the fuel filter would temporarily fix the problem. What I Tried - Replaced the mechanical lift pump. - The truck improved but would still stall occasionally. - Increased the idle speed with the idle screw, and that seemed to solve the problem for a while. Problem Returned Eventually, the same symptoms came back. I repeated the previous repairs, but this time nothing fixed it. FASS Conversion Thinking the factory fuel system was the culprit, I: - Deleted the factory fuel filter housing. - Removed the mechanical lift pump. - Installed a block-off plate. - Installed a FASS fuel system. Current Symptoms - The FASS primes with the key and supplies fuel to the P7100. - The truck will not start on diesel alone. - It starts immediately with a small amount of starting fluid. - Once started, it will sometimes idle on its own, but other times it needs throttle to stay running. - Without starting fluid, it only cranks—there's no attempt to fire. After spending a lot of time troubleshooting, I finally decided to take it to a diesel shop for a proper diagnosis. Based on this timeline, what would your diagnosis be? I'll update this post with the shop's findings once they call me.