Currently I don’t have either one, I was going to run VE as it seems like it’s cheaper. I don’t have injectors or injector lines anyway, so either one makes sense. I can get a timing cover for 100$, but I do like the automatic fuel advance on VE pump. I’m running non-IC reentrant pistons and it’s a low HP build. Aftermarket VE, fake Cummins VE, or aftermarket P?

Had to get a new Chinese head as my OEM 94 head was cracked in 1653 places. Surface finish - rough, the head was straight but surface finished could be felt with finger, pretty rough, but I think OEM comparable. Would probably be fine with OEM graphite gasket. I had it decked 4thou for finer finish as I’ll be running MLS gasket. Valve seals are top hat style with unknown material. All the valves sealed when pretty tested. I’ve ordered some mahle viton seals. Exhaust spring appears to be upgraded/different than OEM. Spring retainer also finer machining, but thinner than OEM. I’m assuming that exhaust springs are +60 but I have no was to test it. Intake spring appears to be the same. Should I upgrade my intake spring to the same cone style? Will be running 3K VE pump.

Any experiences with piston coatings? Any companies? I see sweintech being brought up, but that’s in 10yr old threads. I’m in US

Hey all, Trying to do the right thing on a budget, I’ve got a starret 3202, 0.001” accuracy, but I want to make sure I’m measuring correctly. I’ll be using this caliper to check piston to wall clearance and cam specs. When measuring pistons, I go perpendicular to the piston, and I basically kind of move the caliper until in a radius until it’s snug. All the pistons came out at 4.055 “. My question is, should I just tighten once, or move in a radius like I do? If I try to eyeball the center they came out to 4.054”. These are early mahle pistons.

Has any one used one of these kits? Is it actually Cummins stuff or knock off’s? @Robert Winkworth are the marine pistons worth doing on a 500-600hp truck with a manual?