Happy Friday everyone! I’m doing a Feedback Friday where I ask for some specific feedback. I’ve had a couple of members throw out some topics and I plan to do all of them, but I’d like to see which one everyone is interested in me doing first as a full on course in the classroom. Please choose a topic below or add one if there is another you’d like me to consider doing! Thank you for your feedback!

I was just chatting with my oldest daughter (who lives in Australia with her husband and our two grand-littles), and they have a pigeon that started hanging around over the past couple days. It appears to perhaps be a homing pigeon (she said it has a band but they couldn't really read anything on it), so it is quite friendly, and they are trying to find its owners. They're talking with a local bird organization that is helping with this. In the meantime, they have noticed that it has mites and were wondering about the best way to treat them. Those of you with poultry who have treated for mites before, what have you used that worked? Especially something natural that would be easily obtainable anywhere? They don't have easy access to farm stores where they live. I realize this isn't "poultry", but I would assume treatment would be similar?

Happy Introduction Week at The Healthy Coop Collective! Today's topic is one of my favorites because it combines science with creativity - keeping our flocks happy and healthy during the cold winter months. 🌡️ Why Winter Treats Matter (The Science Part) Winter presents unique challenges for our flocks: 🥶Increased caloric needs - chickens burn more energy staying warm 🥶Reduced foraging opportunities - frozen ground limits natural behaviors 🥶Behavioral enrichment becomes critical - boredom can lead to pecking and other welfare issues 🥶Mental stimulation - keeps birds active and engaged during shorter days ✅ What Makes a GOOD Winter Treat? 🐓Provide extra calories/energy for cold weather 🐓Encourage natural foraging behaviors 🐓Keep birds active and mentally stimulated 🐓Make up no more than 10% of daily diet (to maintain balanced nutrition) 🐓Be safe and digestible 🚫 Quick Safety Reminder Before we dive into favorites, remember these foods are TOXIC to chickens: 🤢Avocado (skin and pit) 🤢Chocolate 🤢Raw or dried beans 🤢Green potatoes or tomatoes 🤢Onions and garlic in large amounts 🤢Moldy or spoiled foods 🤢Salty or sugary processed foods 🎯 My Winter Treat Ideas: High-Energy Options: 🐣Scratch grains - feeding in late afternoon to provide overnight energy 🐣Whole corn - metabolizes slowly, creating warmth overnight 🐣Black oil sunflower seeds - high fat and protein Activity-Based Enrichment: 🐔Cabbage/lettuce hanging - encourages jumping and pecking 🐔Sprouted grains - provides fresh greens when pasture is unavailable 🐔Treat blocks - compressed seeds and grains that take time to consume 🐔Warm oatmeal - warm (not hot) foods on very cold mornings 🤔 Now Here's Where I Need YOUR Expertise! I want to hear about YOUR experiences because real-world knowledge: 1. What's your flock's FAVORITE winter treat? (The one that makes them come running every time!) 2. Do you have a special "recipe" or way of presenting treats? (Hanging feeders? Frozen blocks? Warm mashes?) 3. Have you noticed any treats that seem to keep them busier longer? (Winter days are long - what keeps them entertained?)

Welcome to The Healthy Coop Collective! Today we're tackling one of the most critical aspects of backyard flock management: predator prevention. Let's dive in! 🔬 The Science Behind Predator Pressure According to USDA and university extension research, predation is the leading cause of chicken mortality in backyard flocks. Understanding predator behavior is the first step in effective prevention. 🎯 Key Predator-Proofing Principles: 1. Hardware Cloth Over Chicken Wire: University extension services consistently recommend ½" or ¼" hardware cloth instead of chicken wire. Why? Chicken wire keeps chickens IN but doesn't keep predators OUT. Raccoons can tear through it, and weasels can squeeze through the openings. Hardware cloth provides a physical barrier that most predators cannot breach. 2. The "Dig Defense" Method: It is recommended to bury fencing 12-18 inches deep and bend it outward in an "L" shape. This prevents digging predators (foxes, dogs, coyotes) from tunneling under. Alternative: Lay hardware cloth on the ground extending 12-24 inches out from the coop perimeter and cover with dirt or gravel. 3. Overhead Protection: Hawks and owls are aerial predators that hunt during different times. I recommend covering runs with hardware cloth, netting, or wire to prevent aerial attacks. Even free-range flocks benefit from overhead cover in the form of trees, shrubs, or shade structures. 4. Secure Latching Systems: Here's a critical fact from wildlife research: Raccoons can open simple latches, hooks, and even some "complex" closures. Use carabiner clips, two-step latches, or padlocks on all doors and access points. Raccoons are incredibly dexterous and persistent. 5. Eliminate Gaps: If you can fit three fingers through an opening, a predator can exploit it. Weasels can fit through openings as small as 1 inch. Check your coop thoroughly for gaps at corners, where walls meet floors, around doors and windows, and where hardware cloth is attached. 📊 Predator Identification Guide