This is a very common task that I should charge to teach but I believe in giving back to the community so I'll be working on extra operation classes like this head and set and mounting fabrication from seat to prong by prong. Here the original setting was composed of only two prongs, the customer lost the cz stone about .40ct, so I decided to do 3 prongs with a .50ct cz. Unfortunately I wasn't able to catch the final result, but the customer loves it. At a jewelry store where they sell loose stones then they offer this service to set their stone in your mounting and that's where you come in and make that happen either by ordering a new head or mounting or my personal favorite is to add new prongs around the same setting.

A great example today with the sides of the clasps giving out to the point of cracking and breakage. Did it in under 20 minutes this is my return customer so I give them a return customer price at 20 dollars. They don't have to buy a new clasp if they keep seeing me. You can also make these yourself if you look up all the how to videos. I always told my brother if you can make it from scratch then you can keep rebuilding it.

I'm going to try the email all option and share this technique, welcome 2 new users btw. This is a great way for heat sensitive stones and it takes less time than the usual using a pick and waiting to get enough heat around your joint. Notice that it soldered before the wet paper started sizzling. Also my torch was pointing upwards so be careful of what behind your ring. I had already inserted a piece of chip solder in the joint as well and fluxed. Another way to do this is submerging the heat sensitive stone in water within a cap full while you solder. The. There's the heat paste which is a mess but works. You don't want to use too much water where the steam is interfering with your flame or your paste got near your joint flame path.

I have return customers from day one that keep an eye on their clasp ends. The bottom of lobster clasps is a good spot to rebuild without having to replace the clasp. This one the clasp has been welded shut because the chain goes over the head easily. Some of these spots are easily buffed out by the felt wheel while others will need a little sanding or emery before the felt then buff.

Here we got a chance to get inside this watch and also soak the chassis and clean almost every single part. This happens when moisture reaches the inside due to the corrosion of the waterproof seal around the edges of the back seal cover. This involves disassembling only down to the crown stem and face dial. You usually only need a bobby pin to poke at the release trigger for the stem to come out freeing everything. So we can separate the movement which isn't waterproof and soak the rest. Sometimes you can't just put in a battery and it start ticking, so we might have to jump the capacitor inside using a very small tweezer like as mini jumping cables as I had to do here as well. It started working but unfortunately the crystal came off and I had to reinstall the glass crystal too which involves epoxy adhesive mixture same as pearl glue and it's done. Something like this can bring in as much as 49.99 plus tax at a retail shopping mall or 25.99 wholesale. I charged 10 because I know her and she brings in a lot of stuff. Plus the watch isn't worth 20 bucks. Took me about 40 minutes but can take as little as 15.