Cleaning a small engine carburetor works best when you focus on passages, not just parts. Most carburetor problems aren’t caused by the carb being “dirty” on the outside. They’re caused by varnish and residue inside tiny fuel passages that restrict flow. Spraying the carb from the outside or just pulling the bowl off often isn’t enough. The most effective way to clean a carburetor starts with removing it from the engine. That allows proper access and prevents debris from being pushed deeper into the system. Once removed, the bowl, float, and jets should be taken out so fuel passages are exposed. Jets are especially important, even a small restriction can cause hard starting, surging, or poor throttle response. Carb cleaner should be used to flush passages, not just soak parts. Spraying through every opening and confirming cleaner exits somewhere else ensures passages are actually clear. Compressed air helps, but only after spraying cleaner through first. Never use wire or hard objects to poke jets, this can permanently change fuel flow. Gaskets and seals should be inspected before reassembly. Reusing damaged gaskets often leads to air leaks that create new problems after cleaning. Once reinstalled, fresh fuel makes a big difference, old fuel can undo good cleaning work quickly. A properly cleaned carburetor restores correct fuel delivery, improves starting, and brings back smooth throttle response. Taking the time to clean it thoroughly once is better than pulling it apart multiple times. When you’ve cleaned a carb in the past, what symptom were you trying to fix, hard starting, surging, or something else?

One of the most important and overlooked parts of a lawn mower isn’t the engine, it’s the blade. A sharp mower blade doesn’t just make the lawn look better, it directly affects engine load, fuel use, and long-term reliability. When a blade is dull, it tears grass instead of cutting it cleanly. That forces the engine to work harder, increases vibration, and can shorten belt and bearing life over time. Dull blades also stress the grass itself. Torn grass blades lose moisture faster and are more prone to disease, which leads to a lawn that looks brown or uneven even when everything else is set up correctly. From a mechanical standpoint, a sharp blade reduces resistance. That means smoother operation, more consistent RPM, and less strain on the engine, especially in thick or damp grass. It’s one of the simplest ways to improve mower performance without touching the engine at all. Blade condition should be checked regularly during the season, not just once a year. If the mower starts leaving ragged cuts, clumps grass more than usual, or sounds like it’s working harder than it should, the blade is often the reason. Good cutting starts at the blade. Everything else works better when that’s right. When was the last time you checked or sharpened yours?

Beyond firing the spark, a plug tells a story about what’s happening inside the engine. The colour and condition of the electrode and insulator can point to mixture, combustion quality, and operating conditions. A plug that’s light tan or gray typically indicates normal combustion. Dark, wet, or sooty plugs often point to rich operation, excessive idling, short run times, or cold-weather use where the engine never fully warms up. This is common on sleds and small engines that see lots of starts and stops. Plugs that look unusually white, blistered, or worn can indicate higher operating temperatures, lean conditions, or excessive load. That’s not something to ignore, especially on two-stroke engines where lubrication depends on proper mixture. Correct plug heat range matters. A plug that’s too cold may never burn off deposits and will foul easily. A plug that’s too hot can overheat and cause pre-ignition. Using the manufacturer’s recommended plug is usually the safest baseline unless other modifications are in place. The gap also matters more than people realize. A gap that’s too wide can cause a weak spark under load, while a gap that’s too tight can reduce combustion efficiency. Checking and setting the gap during routine maintenance helps keep starting and throttle response consistent. Spark plugs aren’t just parts you replace when something goes wrong. They’re one of the easiest ways to check engine health before problems show up. When was the last time you actually looked at the plug you pulled out?

Snowmobile performance isn’t about bolting on parts and hoping for more speed. Real performance comes from proper setup, correct tuning, and understanding how the engine, clutching, fuel, and airflow all work together. Most sleds already have good power , they just aren’t running at their best because something is slightly off. Simple things make a big difference: correct belt condition, clean fuel delivery, proper clutch engagement, and making sure the engine is actually reaching its power band. Even cold-weather issues like poor starting or sluggish throttle response usually come down to setup, not major failures. Chasing horsepower without addressing fundamentals leads to unreliable sleds and expensive repairs. Dialing in what you already have gives better throttle response, smoother power delivery, and longer engine life. That’s the approach we take here. No gimmicks. No guesswork. Just proven methods to get better performance out of your sled while keeping it reliable for the season. If you’re interested in understanding why your sled performs the way it does — and how to make it better without hurting it ,you’re in the right place. Stay tuned I will be delivering information on Clutch Kits and performance tuning this afternoon.

If a Nikasil or Cast iron cylinder has not been damaged and has had aluminum from a melted piston that has transferred onto the cylinder for a unknown reason, there is a chance it can be removed using muriatic acid. Once the aluminum is cleaned off, a light ball hone can be used to prep the surface by completing cross hatching for a new piston and rings. This only applies when the Nikasil coating or the cast iron cylinders are still usable.