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WE ARE SO BACK! 🚀
The energy in here has been UNMATCHED...and I wanted to do something massive to celebrate everyone who is locked in and ready to level up their credit. I know a lot of you have started the DIY journey using the free tools in the classroom. But I also know that life gets busy (and hard, hence my hiatus)..and sometimes you just want the pros to take the wheel so you can get results faster without the headache. Because you are a Skool Member, I’m giving you an EXCLUSIVE "Family Only" discount. This link is NOT on my TikTok. It’s NOT on my Instagram. It is only right here for you. 🎁 The Skool Exclusive Deal: - ❌ Public Price: $399 - ✅ Skool Member Price: $349 - What’s included in the 6-Month Fast Track: - Full Service: We handle the personalized game plan and all disputes. - Monthly Updates: You stay in the loop while we do the heavy lifting. - Money-Back Guarantee: We stand by our work, you get a guarantee on deletions. Stop stressing over the paperwork and let us handle the strategy. This is a private link only available to members of this group, and once our spots for the month are full, this discount will be taken down. 👉 Claim your Exclusive $349 Rate here ⬇️ https://www.levelupconsultingllc.co/skool-community-discount 2026 IS YOUR YEAR! 📈
What To Do When an Account Comes Back “Verified”
When a credit bureau says an account was “verified,” most people stop. But under the FCRA, “verified” does NOT mean they proved anything. It usually means the furnisher responded electronically with “yes, this is correct.” Here’s exactly what to do next if you want to push for a deletion: 1. Immediately request the Method of Verification (MOV) Under FCRA §611(a)(6) and §611(a)(7), you have the right to know: - How they verified the account - What procedure was used - Who they contacted - Whether actual documentation was reviewed Send a letter requesting a full description of their verification method. This forces accountability and exposes weak investigations. 2. Pull all 3 updated reports and compare every detail After receiving your investigation results, check your new reports for: - Date of first delinquency - Date opened - Date last active - Balance reporting - Payment history accuracy - Status (open, closed, charged off, etc.) - Differences between Experian, Equifax, and TransUnion Any mismatch or inaccurate detail becomes a new dispute angle. 3. Send a new dispute focusing on ONE specific inaccuracy Under FCRA §607(b), the bureaus must ensure maximum possible accuracy.If even ONE detail cannot be verified, the entire account may need to be deleted. Examples of detailed angles to dispute: - Wrong payment history for a specific month - Incorrect date of first delinquency - Balance not matching original creditor’s records - Creditor name or account number reported inconsistently - Status not updating correctly Targeting one flaw makes it harder for them to verify. 4. If it’s a collection, demand validation directly from the collector. Under the FDCPA (15 U.S.C. §1692g), you can request: - Proof they own the debt - Proof of the amount - A copy of the original agreement - Evidence that you are the correct consumer If they cannot validate, they should not be reporting it. This strengthens your case for deletion with the bureaus.
Dispute Process
Midland , NCA and NCS did not respond to debt validation letters so how can I address letters to credit bureus? Also Unifin and ARS did not respond to debt validation requested and continued to send text messages even during 30 days of request.They are not on my credit though. Last Citibank was charged off but never transfered to collections so do you recommend for me to dispute it? Chase was charged off too and I paid them so do you recommend for me to dispute too?
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💳 The Minimum Payment Trap: Why $27 Can Cost You $1,400
I want you to look closely at this statement because this is a PERFECT example of why I always tell you guys that making only the minimum payment can keep you in credit card debt for YEARS. This person has a balance of $960.27 and their minimum payment is only $27. Sounds manageable, right? Here’s the problem. According to the statement: 👉 Pay only the minimum payment and it will take about 4 YEARS to pay off. 👉 By the time it’s paid off, they will have paid about $1,403 total. But the statement also shows that increasing the payment to just $34 per month could cut the payoff time to about 3 years and reduce the estimated total to $1,219. That's only $7 more per month, but about $184 less out of your pocket. And if you can afford to pay even MORE than that? You can attack the balance much faster. 🔄 Another Option: A Balance Transfer If you have good enough credit to qualify, another tool to consider is a 0% APR balance transfer card. A balance transfer simply means moving debt from a credit card charging you a high interest rate to another credit card offering a lower rate, sometimes 0% interest for a promotional period. Instead of a big part of your payment going toward interest every month, more of your money can go toward actually getting rid of the balance. ⚠️ This does NOT make the debt disappear. You're moving the debt so you can hopefully pay it off for less. Most balance transfers also charge a fee, commonly around 3% to 5%, and the 0% rate eventually expires. 👀 Some current 0% offers I found ⬇️ As of September 2026, there are several offers worth researching: Citi Diamond Preferred: 0% introductory APR for 21 months on balance transfers. Transfers must be completed within the first 4 months. The introductory transfer fee is 3%, minimum $5. Chase Slate: 0% introductory APR for 21 months on purchases and balance transfers, followed by the card's regular variable APR. A balance transfer fee applies. Discover it Balance Transfer: 0% introductory APR for 15 months on purchases and balance transfers, followed by the regular variable APR. A balance transfer fee applies.
💳 The Minimum Payment Trap: Why $27 Can Cost You $1,400
💳 STOP WAITING UNTIL THE DUE DATE TO PAY YOUR CREDIT CARD!
Did you know you can pay your credit card ON TIME every single month and still have a high balance reported to the credit bureaus? Here’s what most people don’t realize... Your due date and your statement closing date are two different dates. 📅 Due Date: The date your minimum payment is due. Paying by this date helps you avoid a late payment. 📅 Statement Closing Date: The date your billing cycle ends. The balance around this time is commonly what your credit card company reports to the credit bureaus. So let’s say: Your credit limit is $1,000 Your balance is $700 Your statement closes on the 20th Even if your payment isn’t due until the 15th of the following month, that $700 balance could be reported when your statement closes. That would show 70% utilization! 😳 Instead, try paying your balance down BEFORE your statement closes. For example, if you pay that $700 balance down to $90 before the statement closes, your reported utilization could be around 9% instead of 70%. 🔥 A simple credit card routine: 1. Find your statement closing date in your credit card app or statement. 2. Pay your balance down BEFORE that date if you’re trying to keep reported utilization low. 3. Pay your remaining statement balance by the due date to avoid interest, assuming your card has a grace period and you’re not carrying a previous balance. And remember, 30% utilization is not the goal. It’s more of a ceiling people commonly hear about. Lower utilization is generally better for your scores, and you do NOT need to carry debt or pay interest to build credit. 💬 HOMEWORK: Go check one of your credit cards right now. What’s your statement closing date? Drop it below! 👇
💳 STOP WAITING UNTIL THE DUE DATE TO PAY YOUR CREDIT CARD!
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