If you’ve ever tried to compare two dog foods and thought “Why does this look so different?” — moisture is usually the reason. That’s where Dry Matter Basis (DMB) comes in. Why This Calculation Exists Dog food labels list nutrients with water included (“as-fed”). Because: Kibble has very little moisture Canned/fresh food has a lot of moisture The numbers can look misleading. Dry matter basis removes the water so you’re comparing nutrition to nutrition, not water to water The Simple Formula Don’t panic — it looks scarier than it is. Dry Matter Basis Formula Nutrient % ÷ (100 − Moisture %) × 100 That’s it. 🐾 Example: Example food label - what you are reading on the bag. Protein: 26% Moisture: 10% Step 1: Subtract moisture from 100 100 − 10 = 90 Step 2: Divide protein by that number 26 ÷ 90 = 0.289 Step 3: Multiply by 100 0.289 × 100 = 28.9% 👉 Dry matter protein = ~29% Why This Matters (Especially for Wet vs Dry Food) A canned food might say: Protein: 8% Moisture: 75% Using the same formula: 100 − 75 = 25 8 ÷ 25 = 0.32 0.32 × 100 = 32% protein (dry matter) On paper it looked “low protein” — but nutritionally, it’s not. You do not need to calculate this every time. This tool is helpful when: Comparing dry vs wet food Working with a vet or nutritionist Trying to understand why labels look confusing Your dog’s health, body condition, and digestion still matter more than the math. Takeaway The guaranteed analysis: (what is on the bag) Only gives starting information Doesn’t tell the whole story Dry matter basis helps you: Compare foods fairly Avoid marketing confusion Ask better questions 💬 Community Reflection Have you ever avoided comparing foods because the numbers felt overwhelming?

Puppies aren’t just small dogs — they’re growing machines. And because of that, their nutritional needs are very different from adult dogs. Let’s break down why puppy food exists, what makes it different, and when it’s time to switch. Why Puppies Need Different Nutrition Puppies are doing a LOT all at once: growing bones building muscles developing organs maturing immune systems That growth requires more energy and very specific nutrient balance — not just “more food.” What Makes Puppy Food Different Puppy diets are formulated to have: Higher calories per bite Higher protein (for growth and muscle development) higher fat (for energy and brain development) Carefully balanced calcium and phosphorus (for bone growth) That balance is critical — especially for large and giant breed puppies. More isn’t always better. Balance is the goal. What Adult Dog Food Is Designed For Adult dog food is formulated for: Maintenance, not growth Stable energy needs Preventing excess weight gain Supporting long-term health Feeding adult food too early can mean a puppy: Doesn’t get enough calories Nisses key nutrients Grows too slowly or unevenly ‼️Large Breed Puppies: Extra Important‼️ Large and giant breed puppies have special nutritional needs. Too much calcium or calories can: Push bones to grow too fast Increase the risk of joint and orthopedic issues That’s why “large breed puppy” formulas exist — they’re not a marketing gimmick. When Do Puppies Switch to Adult Food? There’s no single answer — it depends on size and breed. General guidelines: Small breeds: ~9–12 months Medium breeds: ~12 months Large/giant breeds: ~12–18 months (sometimes longer) Your vet can help tailor this based on your dog, not just the bag. “But My Puppy Is Huge / Always Hungry / Looks Adult…” Totally normal thoughts. Growth rate, body condition, and breed matter more than age alone. This is where regular weight checks and vet guidance are incredibly helpful. Feeding puppy food isn’t about spoiling your dog.

A lot of pet parents choose homemade diets because they care deeply about what goes into their pet’s body. That intention matters. But when it comes to nutrition, good intentions still need good balance. Let’s talk about homemade diets — and one tool vets often recommend to help do them more safely. Why Homemade Diets Can Be Tricky Cooking for your pet feels straightforward — protein, carbs, veggies, done… right? The hard part is that dogs need: very specific calcium-to-phosphorus ratios essential vitamins and trace minerals nutrients that aren’t obvious or visible consistency over time Many nutritional deficiencies don’t show up right away. They build slowly, which makes them easy to miss. “But My Pet Looks Great…” Totally hear this — and it’s common. Pets can look healthy, have great coats, have normal energy …while still being nutritionally unbalanced under the surface. Nutrition issues are often silent until they aren’t. Where Balance IT Comes In Balance IT is a website often recommended by veterinarians and veterinary nutritionists for pets eating homemade diets. What it does: Helps calculate recipes based on your pet’s needs accounts for vitamins and minerals most recipes miss provides supplements to balance home-cooked meals allows customization for medical conditions (with vet guidance) It’s not about taking cooking away from you — it’s about making it complete. Why Supplements Matter in Homemade Diets Even well-researched recipes often fall short in: *calcium *zinc *iodine *essential fatty acids *certain B vitamins Balance IT helps fill those gaps — because food alone usually can’t. Important Clarification Using Balance IT does not replace: Veterinary guidance Medical oversight Nutrition consults for complex conditions But it does offer a much safer starting point than guessing or internet recipes. Homemade diets aren’t “bad.” Unbalanced diets are the problem. If you’re cooking for your pet: You’re already invested You already care This is about refining, not criticizing

Pet food labels can look straightforward… until you realize words like “meat,” “meat meal,” and “meat by-products” don’t all mean the same thing. And yes — the wording is very intentional. Let’s break down what these terms actually mean according to AAFCO (the group that sets ingredient definition standards for pet food labeling). “Meat” When a label says “meat,” it refers to the clean flesh of slaughtered mammals — most commonly beef, pork, or lamb. This includes: skeletal muscle and sometimes the muscles of the heart, tongue, diaphragm, and esophagus It may also naturally include small amounts of: fat connective tissue nerves and blood vessels 👉 It does not include bone, feathers, hooves, or intestinal contents. Think of “meat” as fresh, unrendered animal muscle tissue. “Meat Meal” “Meat meal” is meat that has been cooked down (rendered) and then dehydrated into a concentrated protein powder. That rendering process removes: water most fat What’s left is: 👉 a dense, protein-rich ingredient Meat meal is not automatically bad — in fact, it can provide more protein per ounce than fresh meat because it isn’t diluted by moisture. Quality depends on: the source the manufacturer how the ingredient is handled Not the word “meal” alone. Meat By-Products” AAFCO defines meat by-products as the non-rendered parts of the animal other than meat. This can include: organs (liver, kidneys, lungs, spleen) stomach and intestines (cleaned) other edible internal tissues ❗ It does not include: hair horns hooves feathers 👉 Organs are actually highly nutritious and contain vitamins and minerals muscle meat doesn’t. So “by-products” aren’t automatically “bad” — but, again, quality control matters by brand and sourcing. Poultry Terms Work the Same Way Poultry = clean flesh of birds (muscle tissue) Poultry meal = rendered, concentrated version Poultry by-products = organs + internal tissues (not feathers or feet) Same rules — different species. So… Which One Is “Better”?

When you’re choosing a dog food, one of the most important — and most overlooked — parts of the label is the AAFCO nutritional adequacy statement. It tells you whether a food is actually complete and balanced… or just a fancy snack. Let’s break it down in simple terms 🐾 What is AAFCO? AAFCO (say it like “A-F-co”) is an organization that creates nutrition standards for pet food. They don’t make the food — they set the minimum nutrition requirements so dogs get what they need to stay healthy. Think of it as the nutrition rulebook. Where do you find the AAFCO statement? Look on the bag or can near the ingredients list. You’ll see wording like: “This food is formulated to meet the nutritional levels established by AAFCO for adult maintenance.” or “This food provides complete and balanced nutrition for all life stages.” If there is no AAFCO statement, the food is not a complete diet — it may only be a treat or topper. Here’s how to read it ⬇️ “Adult Maintenance” 👉 For healthy adult dogs only “Puppy / Growth” 👉 For growing puppies (sometimes large breeds require special wording) “All Life Stages” 👉 Safe for puppies and adults (often higher in calories) “Intermittent or Supplemental Feeding Only” 👉 Not a complete diet — do not feed as the only food Two ways foods can meet AAFCO Both are valid: 1️⃣ Formulated to meet standards (the recipe meets nutrition requirements on paper) 2️⃣ Feeding trials (the food has been tested on real dogs over time) Feeding trials provide stronger reassurance — but both are acceptable. Why this matters for your dog: The AAFCO statement helps ensure your dog gets: enough protein, vitamins, and minerals appropriate nutrients for their life stage a diet that won’t cause slow, hidden deficiencies It’s one of the most reliable parts of the label — more meaningful than marketing words like “premium,” “natural,” or “holistic.” 🐾 Quick takeaway If it’s meant to be a full diet, the label should say: 👉 Complete and balanced according to AAFCO