Caring for bichirs (Polypterus) and rope fish (Erpetoichthys calabaricus) is a rewarding challenge, as these "ancient fish" have unique prehistoric requirements. Since they are closely related members of the Polypteridae family, their care overlaps significantly. ​1. Tank Security: The "Escape Artist" Rule ​Both species, especially rope fish, are notorious for escaping through even the smallest gaps. - ​Tight-Fitting Lid: Ensure there are zero gaps around HOB filters, heaters, or wires. Use craft mesh or foam to plug any openings. - ​Weighted Covers: Larger bichirs can actually jump with enough force to nudge a lightweight plastic hood. ​2. Dietary Needs ​These fish are carnivorous bottom-feeders with a keen sense of smell but relatively poor eyesight. - ​Protein-Rich Foods: Offer a variety of sinking carnivore pellets, frozen bloodworms, mysis shrimp, and chopped earthworms. - ​Night Feeding: They are most active at dusk or night. Dropping food near their hiding spots just before turning off the lights ensures they get their share before faster tank mates eat it all. - ​Variety: Rotate their diet to prevent nutritional deficiencies. Avoid feeder goldfish, which can carry parasites and are high in growth-inhibiting enzymes (thiaminase). ​3. Habitat & Water Quality - ​The Labyrinth Organ: These fish are facultative air-breathers. They must be able to reach the surface to gulp air. Always leave a 2-3 inch gap of air between the water line and the lid. - ​Substrate: Soft sand is ideal. Coarse gravel can be swallowed during feeding, leading to fatal impaction. - ​Hiding Spots: Use PVC pipes, smooth rock caves, or driftwood. Rope fish are social and feel much more secure when they can "pile up" together in a shared tube. ​4. Tank Mates - ​Size Compatibility: If a fish can fit in a bichir’s mouth, it eventually will. Avoid neon tetras or small guppies. - ​Avoid "Slimy" Feeders: Do not keep them with Plecos or other sucker-mouth catfish. These often try to suck the slime coat off the flat sides of bichirs and rope fish, causing severe lesions. - ​Ideal Partners: Larger, peaceful fish like Silver Dollars, medium-sized Cichlids (like Severums or Blue Acara), or Giant Danios.

Breeding Veiltails follows the same general principles as most Betta splendens, but because they are the most common variety, your focus should be on genetic health and fin structure to ensure the offspring are robust. ​Here are specific tips for breeding Veiltails: ​1. The Breeding Environment - ​The Spawning Tank: Use a 10-gallon tank filled only 5–6 inches deep. This makes it easier for the male to pick up fallen eggs and return them to the bubble nest without exhausting himself. - ​Surface Stillness: Use a sponge filter or keep the filtration off during the actual spawning. Veiltails need perfectly still water to build and maintain their bubble nests. - ​Hiding Spots: Provide plenty of cover for the female (live plants like Java Moss or PVC pipes). Veiltail males can be particularly aggressive during the courtship phase. ​2. Conditioning the Pair - ​Live Foods: Feed the pair high-quality proteins like frozen bloodworms, brine shrimp, or daphnia for about two weeks before introduction. This helps the female develop a healthy "egg spot" (ovipositor) and ensures the male has the energy to guard the nest. - ​Temperature: Gradually raise the tank temperature to around 80°F–82°F (27°C–28°C). This mimics the warm rainy season in their natural habitat and triggers breeding behavior. ​3. The "Crowning" and Spawning - ​Visual Cues: When the female is ready, she will develop dark vertical bars on her body (if she is a dark-colored fish) and her belly will look noticeably rounded. - ​The Nest: The male Veiltail often builds his nest under a floating leaf or a piece of Styrofoam. Once the nest is sturdy and the female shows interest, release her from her chimney/divider. - ​Egg Care: Once the "nuptial embrace" is over and the eggs are in the nest, remove the female immediately. The male will become highly protective and may attack her to keep the nest safe. ​4. Raising the Fry - ​The First 48 Hours: Once the eggs hatch, the fry will hang vertically from the nest. The male will stay to catch any that fall. Once they are "free-swimming" (swimming horizontally), remove the male. - ​First Foods: Veiltail fry are tiny. Start with infusoria or liquid fry food for the first week, then move to Baby Brine Shrimp (BBS). - ​Water Changes: To ensure those long, flowing Veiltail fins develop correctly without kinking or rot, perform small, daily water changes (10%) using a drip system to avoid shocking the fry.