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Make it Match
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16 contributions to Make it Match
Fiberglass How far down do I need to sand?
Currently working on a fiberglass bodied dune buggy. Other than the original gel coat, the body has been painted once around 2016. That paint consisted of a layer of primer (definitely not a high build) and a base color + Clear coat. I've started the bodywork, correcting the previous repairs that used a regular body filler rather than actually repairing fiberglass and using a body filler made for fiberglass. The areas that need repair get taken down all the way to bare fiberglass. My question is how far down to I need to sand the other areas. I know that there's no way to see all of the potential problems without removing the latest respray, but can I stop at the original gel coat layer or do I need to strip EVERYTHING down to the bare fiberglass? My original thought was that I'd take it down to the gel coat, cover with an epoxy primer and follow that a high build primer to block it? While I don't want to waste time sanding if it isn't needed, it would be way worse to waste the sanding time, the materials cost, AND additional time to re sand because of a skipped step that causes an issue. Any guidance greatly appreciated.
0 likes • 2d
Thanks Aaron! I feel like I'll be sanding for the next year!
0 likes • 1d
@Aaron Jokela I've now read through the classroom documentation on sandpapers and have what is probably a stupid question, but want to ask. I assume most of the removal of old paint is done with a DA? with interface pad for radius coves and curves? This is my first time dealing with fiberglass. All my other builds when something needed to be stripped I sandblasted. I am using good quality discs but after reading I'm probably using them too long - because my last session I went an hour + without changing.
Aaron I need your expertise!
I have a customer who wants me to redo this paint job but instead of orange he wants a candy red to gold fade. I know when spraying a candy you have to walk the whole vehicle for even orientation horizontally. My initial thought was to do the “wrist flick method” vertically but I was wondering if that would ruining the orientation horizontally? I hope I’m making sense lol but please help!
Aaron I need your expertise!
3 likes • 7d
That definitely won't be easy. Agree that fading it is best achieved through the gun. Would love to hear about the process and see the results.
1 like • 6d
@Stevie G I've never attempted a gradient / fade on that scale or with a full size gun, but I have done lots of them with touch up guns and airbrushes with fan caps. The orientation (angle of your gun) can really help. Rather than keeping your gun 90° to the panel, aim slightly into the fade (meaning in your reference pic, that would be slightly down - that will help disperse and feather the end. Doing the fade with candy makes it especially difficult because it's challenging enough to lay down evenly
Sprayed my first car!
Aaron, Wanted to share pics and extend many thanks for your help and advice on all the processes!! Thank you for all you do!! I finished spraying the 65 Mustang on Saturday!! As you may recall, it’s Sherwin William’s “Ford Poppy Red” base and their DC5020 clear. Spraying the clear was tricky with the back to back “wet on wet” coats with no flash time - per the TDS. I’m letting it cure, and will begin the cut and buff process this upcoming weekend. I had some dust that settled on the clear and two small runs (wet on wet clear was tricky to spray - finished a panel and then resprayed the same panel again). Next project is the Mini-Bus in “Hawaiian purple pearl”. Will be diving into it as soon as this one is reassembled. Thanks again!! Talk to you on Saturday!! Bill
Sprayed my first car!
0 likes • 7d
That looks really nice. Congrats! 🎉
Test panel - playing with colors for current build for the wife
This is a mini hood that I got at an airbrush workshop several years ago. it's an aluminum panel stamped into a hood shape but it's about half size. Think the actual width is 28" or so. Mainly did this panel to keep me motivated while I slog through the body work and mechanical issues on a build I'm doing for the wife - A fiberglass bodied dune buggy. Wanted to see if I liked the main blue color (and I do). The base is Tamco's slick silver coarse metallic silver. The darker blue is Tamco' SoCal Candy. The lighter tealish blue is Tamco Monaco candy. This hasn't been cleared yet and it may never get that far- I'm gonna experiment a bit with some interference pearls in hopes of a ghost effect of flowing water. - Anyway, I thought I'd share. Apologies for the crap photo.
Test panel - playing with colors for current build for the wife
0 likes • 7d
@Bill Brown Thanks for the compliments. To answer your question about timing. It could have been done in a single session but I hardly ever get big blocks of time so her's the process I followed: I first sprayed the metallic silver and let it flash off. Then a layer of intercoat clear (if you aren't familiar with that term, it's a 1k clear- has no UV protection or hardeners). This gave me a layer protection to the silver and allowed me to take my time to do the tape out. I waited a full 24 hours to dry and then I scuffed it with a very fine grey scotch pad. I had sketched out the design before I did the layout, and have a good bit of experience with fine line tape, so it only took about an hour and a half to get the design on the hood. After that it was just a matter of shooting the teal, covering it, then spraying the blue and peeling tape.
Paint Correction Crash Cart
I’ve always worked in high volume shop, so I do my best to be efficient. This was my solution for addressing any finish Issues. I intended it to be as mobile as possible with the need for airlines or extension cords so all my polishers and sanders are battery operated. I was hoping to see anyone else’s to see if I’m missing some great ideas.
Paint Correction Crash Cart
0 likes • 16d
What a great setup... Love the setup and don't immediately see anything missing- maybe a razor blades? I do have a question about photo 2. What are the blue and green rectangles? They kinda look like silicone mats but they also look like they could be the top of containers.
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Randy Sizemore
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38 points to level up
@randy-sizemore-2491
Advertising art director by day, aspiring airbrush artist and custom painter by night.

Active 4h ago
Joined Aug 14, 2026
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