Has anyone checked out this gun yet? For those who haven't, it now ships with a 1.3 cap/tip/needle for base, and a different 1.3 cap/tip/needle for clear. An LVLP gun. Brian on Paint Society kind of liked it, but he felt it sprays too slow for shop use.

As soon as I found out that the premium membership had been reduced to $7/mo, I signed up. It's less than a beer at a nice bar, so for me, it was a no brainer. I showed up for the chat yesterday morning, and got a chance to have Aaron answer a bunch of questions specific to my project, and also provide advice on how to proceed on my project. If you're a pro, it may not be worth it for you, but if you're new to the auto painting scene, like me, it's definitely money well spent. Many thanks to Aaron for putting all this together, and for being so willing to share his knowledge with us all.

Just an unsolicited thought from another member... If you've been on the fence about the Premium membership, I'd encourage you to give it a try. I've been attending the weekly live calls for the past few weeks, and because there were so few members, I've often had Aaron all to myself for an hour. Those sessions have probably accelerated my learning more than anything else. Now that the membership is only $7/month, I honestly think it's one of the best values out there if you're serious about improving your skills. I'd love to see more people join the calls — not because anyone asked me to say this, but because I think hearing other people's questions, challenges, and experiences would make the discussions even more valuable for everyone. Hope to see some of you on a future call!

I am getting started on building my paint booth. It will be modular, 12 x 24 ft, with 6 x 8 ft panels that will be fastened together. I've got a 5000 cfm exhaust fan, and was planning to use it to blow air into a plywood plenum, through a dozen intake filters, and then exhaust out the other end through exhaust filters. This will be inside my 40x50 shop that has heat and AC. It will pull conditioned shop air in, but I am uncertain if it can be just be exhausted through the exhaust filters into the shop, or if I need to make it a negative pressure booth, pulling air out and exhausting it outside. I was thinking of using zipwalls to allow me to enter/exit, and also for the truck parts to enter and exit. I would sure appreciate any info/recommendations anyone to help me figure this all out.

A friend of mine on the other side of Finland is doing a nut-and-bolt restoration of an early ‘70s Opel Diplomat. He chose to paint the car with Tikkurila Temadur 90, an industrial 2K polyurethane that’s a single-stage silver metallic. He’s not happy with the result, mainly because of tiger striping. From what I’ve been able to find, he used a generic, inexpensive thinner that appears to have been a fast thinner. He also sprayed the car with a sub-$100 bottom-feed spray gun (probably not ideal! 🤣). He knows I’ve been trying to learn automotive painting and has invited me to respray the car. I plan to use an Iwata WS-400 Series 2.1 Clear gun with either a 1.3 HD or 1.4 HD setup. I’ll spray a number of test panels in my shop before driving over to paint the car. I’ve already picked up some slow thinner for the test panels, as I think it may help reduce tiger striping, especially since it’s a relatively large car. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! I’ve only sprayed one complete car before, and that was more than 30 years ago. The doors will be installed, but the hood, trunk lid, and sunroof will be sprayed separately on stands.