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The Bike Fit Academy

1.1k members • Free

7 contributions to The Bike Fit Academy
Does this look OK?
I'm the one that's always messing with my fit. (STILL messing!) I'm wondering if it may be that something with my fit is way off. Meaning that a 5 - 10 mm adjustment still leaves me far from optimal. Does it appear I am at least in the ballpark, or is something obviously wrong? This fit feels OK today, but most likely won't in a day or 2. I know that frame size/geometry may not be ideal, but I only use that as an indoor trainer. (The measurements on my other bikes are identical.)
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Does this look OK?
Quick update 👋
There won’t be a webinar this week, I’ve been offered a last-minute entry into the Dirty Reiver 200km this weekend, so I’ll be away! We’ll pick things back up on May 1st, and the next session will be a Free Bike Fit Masterclass. We’ll be moving into a new area as well, starting with: 👉 Why Saddle Problems Are Rarely About the Saddle This one’s a big topic and tends to clear up a lot of confusion around comfort, saddle issues, and what’s actually driving those issues. See you on May 1st 👍 4pm BST
0 likes • Apr 30
Is it possible to watch the (free) classes afterwards, on demand? (I'm usually doing something else, here in the USA, then . . . like riding my bike.)
165mm VS 175mm fore/aft
Recently switched to 165 cranks, from 175. I know the saddle needs to be adjusted for that. I assumed it would be both 10mm higher and aft, to stay in the same relative position. But, I just saw a video where a fitter says the shorter cranks allow you to get further forward for more power. (It sounded like he meant the saddle position, not a longer reach.) So, how does the fore/aft change with shorter cranks? (Or, is this just another one of those highly individual things?)
Impact of different size feet on a bike kit?
I am aware that I have one foot about 6mm longer than the other. As a result, should my cleats be moved to accommodate this difference to some degree? The other factor I thought of is the relative positions of the metatarsal joint typically used when working out cleat position. Discuss! or perhaps Dan could cover in one the webinars.
1 like • Mar 28
That's about the same as me. I believe on the longer foot, you want the cleat further fore, by about half the distance. So, 3mm fore on the longer foot. For me, if the cleats are in the same position, and I pedal single legged, the longer footed leg is slower. With that cleat fore, the speed is the same. You could do that on the indoor trainer to check.
Why do I need to keep changing my fit?
I hesitate to post this, as I may get a bit of a scolding, but here it goes . . . I'm not exactly the brightest tool in the refrigerator, so it may just be that there is something obvious that I'm overlooking. I have this OCD thing about constantly adjusting my bike fit. (This seems to get worse as the years go by. Past few years it's pretty much every ride I'm changing things. YES, I know I shouldn't be doing that, but . . . ) No matter how I adjust it, it always feels like something is not right. I DON'T mean that it causes pain, it's more that a lot of the effort my legs are putting out isn't making it to the pedals. Sometimes the fit feels so far off, it's physically impossible for me to do more than a Z1 effort, even if I had the fitness of Pogacar! (And I know it's not fatigue, because there've been times when adjusting the saddle 5 mm doubled my speed going up a 12% grade, without an increase in perceived effort. Maybe I'm just hyper-sensitive to fit changes?) Often, my pedal stroke is very jerky/choppy. Occasionally, my legs do weird things, like bowing out 20-30 cm from the TT on the upstroke, but, as soon as the down-stroke starts, they violently swing in, nearly hitting the TT. I don't dare mention the number of fit changes I made since I began detailed records in 2008! I've had 5 "pro" bike fittings, every one left me LESS comfortable, and slower. The measurements from them were so different, you'd swear they were for 5 different cyclists! For example, one had a saddle-to-bar reach of 52 cm, another 59 cm. One had the saddle setback 6 cm behind BB, another had it 12 cm. So, I know I won't find an answer by getting another pro fit. (Apparently, the fitters here in the USA are nowhere near the caliber of those in the UK.) The main issue seems to be that I need to keep changing my position . . . in order to stay in the same (relative) position. What I mean is, the most efficient (and comfortable) saddle position is pretty much HOP for height, and KOPS for setback, give or take a few mm. The thing is, some days HOP is 77 cm saddle height, other days it's 80 cm. Some days KOPS is 6 cm setback, other days it's 10 cm. If I didn't know better, I'd think my legs randomly grow and shrink at will, or something! (And, yes, I'm using the same bike, pedals, saddle, etc.) Often, soon after I start a ride, I'm like, "WHAT THE &@%*!?!?!?!", because the position feels so screwed up, it's like I'm on someone else's bike! (Even though at the end of the last ride, the fit felt perfect.) So, I spend most of the ride adjusting things 1 -- or 3 -- dozen times, then — usually a couple hundred meters before the end — I finally get it just right . . . or so I think. Then, on the next ride, once again it's "WHAT THE @^#*?!?!?!?!" So, the whole process starts again. (Similarly, immediately after doing a DIY indoor fit, that fit that felt just right feels horrible riding on the road. Again, I DON'T mean pain-wise, but efficiency/power.) Could such big differences in height and fore/aft on a daily basis indicate something physical is going on? Is it possible that I just need different positions on different days?
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Paul Kossa
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@paul-kossa-5796
paulie

Active 14h ago
Joined Feb 24, 2026
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