I’ve never tried compression gloves. Do people see benefits? Is it when your hands feel fatigued? Or muscle soreness? Or joints?

Standard ratio for raglan shaping is usually each section, (back, front, sleeve 1, and sleeve 2), all increase/decrease (depends on whether you’re working too down or bottom up) by 2 sts every X rnds. X depends on your gauge since you will need to change circumference from collar to full bust within the armscye depth. With that said, standard raglan shaping like this only works well on certain bodies, so you can also disregard the simple raglan and work a complex raglan in high you figure the rate of shaping for each of the sections separately; meaning you can increase/decrease at different rates for the sleeves vs. the body. Or if you’re large busted, you can even use a different increase/decrease rate for the back vs the front. I don’t recommend any extreme differences on the latter. I do recommend researching raglan shaping. There are some excellent books that will walk you through the process. I’ll attach pictures of a few.

So I doubt you can successfully do bust darts with colorwork that descends below the yoke since it would mess up your charting. I would see if there will be enough ease across the bust if you choose the size by your upper bust. For example I’m knitting a 42” bust colorwork sweater right now. This will give me the 6” of ease everywhere except my bust. It will give me 0-.25” of ease at the bust. I wouldn’t go any tighter than that. If that’s not enough ease, I would switch sizes at the separation for sleeves and lower body, casting on enough extra sts to switch to the next size up to provide a bit more ease at the bust. You should be able to do that without disturbing the flow of the colorwork. I would save the bust darts method for colorwork yokes with solid lower bodies or designs with much shorter vertical repeats of colorwork and/or texture. For reference when you do want to do bust darts, I’ll see if I can attach some directions for plotting out your own bust darts according to your measurements. It looks like the images from the directions are attaching separately, but hopefully you can still open the directions and follow them. (On a side note, I have done the full shaping with bust darts and waist shaping in the past. I highly recommend using princess shaping and remembering that you don’t have to work extreme shaping in order to achieve the look you want. I’d keep the waist shaping to only 2-4” of change in circumference. Even if that means you still have more ease at the waist than the pattern calls for. Ease is rarely the same at different points of the body, and designs often only tell you the ease for the full bust I how this helps!)

@Caron Lawson looks great! This is what I do with all over colorwork patterns too!

I think this is great!

I’ve often added extra sts under the arms on the lower body of patterns to switch between sizes to accommodate a larger bust. You can probably do that. You’ll have to look at the colorwork charts and see if you can switch seamlessly to the next size up. I’m not sure if you’ll be able to decrease again after that. It depends on the colorwork pattern. The pattern doesn’t have any waist shaping built into it, so any shaping would affect your colorwork.

@Caron Lawson it depends on how many extra stitches you’re trying to increase/decrease. I have an 8” difference between my full bust and upper bust. If I tried to just increase 8” worth of stitches just at the side seams, and then decrease them again for the waist, that could get wonky, especially if I don’t have a lot of rounds to space these increases/ decreases out. I think Ghali loooks like a tough pattern to successfully do this. One thought is to create fake side seams, similar to the raglan lines in the upper body. Then you could do the side seam increases/decreases and not worry about the pattern continuity from front to back. It would look deliberate and mirror the upper body construction. But I would be loathe to do more than a couple of inches that way. Maybe you could get away with a 4” change in circumference, but I’d try it in as I go and really watch it. 2” is safer. Another thought is to try changing needle sizes. Smaller needles could bring the waist in simply by tightening your gauge and vice versa. It’s possible to combine the two techniques to help get more than a couple of inches difference. I haven’t gotten to this part of the pattern myself, so this is all conjecture on my part.