I’m currently developing a marine, salty, citrus, mineral fragrance and I’m thinking a tiny bit of aldehyde c-12 in the opening could really help give it a blast of icy, oceanic, sparkling air. But I’ve never worked with aldehydes before, and I know they’re notoriously tricky to work with. So as a beginner here, I could use some advice. Thank you!

What is one material you are obsessed with right now? For me, it would have to be Hedione HC or Jasmine Grandiflorum Absolute. These are materials I have used extensively and haven't reached for them in particular in a little while. Now when I am playing around in the Lab, I have a hard time not including them in anything and everything. Methyl Nicotinate has also been something that has been interesting to play with. It is not very often you find an aroma chemical that fits a bill of a whole note, but this one is a very very very dry tobacco with almost a super amber feel. Super intriguing.

Coming soon to the accord library!! Also available will be Hibiscus. Stay tuned!!

Florals have long been among the most treasured materials in perfumery. In many cases, they command prices that rival—or even surpass—those of oud and saffron. Few flowers have captivated perfumers quite like jasmine, whose intoxicating aroma has earned it an enduring place at the heart of the craft. Today, we’re creating a co-absolute by combining both Jasmine sambac and Jasmine grandiflorum concretes. Although they share the same common name, these two species have remarkably different personalities. Jasmine sambac is richer, more intense, and beautifully indolic, with a subtle fruity nuance that gives it incredible depth. Jasmine grandiflorum, by contrast, is softer, sweeter, and effortlessly elegant, lending an airy floral refinement. Together, they have the potential to create an exceptionally full, nuanced, and almost ethereal jasmine experience. A concrete is the first stage of extraction: a fragrant, waxy mass that contains the flower’s aromatic compounds along with its natural waxes and pigments. It is then washed with ethanol, allowing the aromatic molecules to dissolve while leaving the waxes behind. After filtration, the alcohol is carefully evaporated, revealing the finished absolute. This is only the beginning of the process, but we’re excited to see how these two extraordinary jasmines evolve together. We’ll share the results once the co-absolute is complete.

Today, I wanted to begin a new series exploring specific notes found in nature and how we recreate them in perfumery. While this series will occasionally venture into fantasy accords, the goal is to deepen our understanding of perfumery as a whole and remind ourselves that creativity should never have limitations. The first note we'll explore is one of my personal favorites: rose. Rose holds a very special place in my heart. I grew up surrounded by rose bushes, cutting fresh blooms as a child to bring to my grandmother, who always seemed to smell of roses herself. To this day, that aroma immediately brings back those memories. Most people think of rose as a single, linear scent. In reality, nothing could be further from the truth. Nature is far more complex than that. Before we talk about roses specifically, it's important to understand why flowers are fragrant in the first place. Floral aromas evolved primarily to attract pollinators. Different flowers produce different combinations of aromatic molecules that appeal to particular insects, birds, or other pollinating animals. This incredible diversity is why flowers can smell so vastly different from one another. Some are fresh, dewy, and unmistakably floral, while others can smell surprisingly spicy, fruity, citrusy, green, or even reminiscent of licorice or melon. Over the years, I've spent countless hours visiting nurseries, botanical gardens, and dedicated rose gardens, studying hundreds of different cultivars. My goal wasn't simply to admire them—it was to understand how roses actually smell in nature rather than relying on the simplified idea of "rose" that perfumery often presents. One observation I've made is that the color of a rose often gives clues about its overall aromatic character. This certainly isn't a strict rule, and there are countless exceptions depending on the variety, but it's an interesting trend I've noticed. - Yellow Roses - Often the brightest-smelling of the group. Many have citrusy, lemony, or even melon-like nuances that can feel cheerful, sparkling, and surprisingly tropical.