Nice! I hope the weather agrees long enough to get utilities in so you can work without freezing.

@Robert Winkworth Later 70s, to early 90s V8 were a disaster of vacuum lines. Time to get out the shears and a ton of vacuum plugs! I can't offer anything else, as I haven't even seen a 318 since the late 90s.

@Robert Winkworth There was a benefit to all the vac hoses; you could use them as a tourniquet for whatever extremity you sliced up on all the cheap/sharp stamped steel. Saves on band-aids/plasters. 😉 lol

I've been in 3 shops over the years with dynos: 1 roller/chassis dyno (which actually used a water brake, not a mass roller. It was old when we installed in in 1994) and 2 engine dynos(1 water brake, 1 eddy). All of them were part of rhe main building. Both engine dynos were outside walls, with a concrete filled cinder block wall and bullet resistant glass separating it from the shop. The chassis dyno was just near one of the roll up doors, but we kept the cars facing outward, so the engines were outside the shop. We never scattered an engine with it, but the sheet metal building wouldn't have done much for safety. For practicality sake,.I would have the dyno room at least attached to a wall of rhe shop, with "internal" door access. The cost of a needed second set of tools, or lost time running back and forth to get tools, would irritate the crap outta me. Also, I'd think running power/etc would be easier if it were attached. As for the lifts, I'd put either 2 or three angling in along one wall. (Depending on space). You could have an aisle wide enough down the center for access, but by having them angled, like a 1 direction parking lot, getting the vehicles in/out and on/off would be easier. I'd also consider putting in another door between the 2 sides, so that if you need to fetch something from one side, you dont have to go all the way to rhe front, and around. Im a bit lazy, but inalso have some foot issues, and minimizing the amount of walking seems like a good idea.

Looking good! 👍 Are you going to do a single pour with no joints or will there be stress reliefs in the slab? Given how large the temp swings can be for you, I'm curious what the best practice is. Im guessing single, un-reliwved slab, but i still wonder.

I live in Central Texas, and my small home shop is just a mini split. If we were father southwest, we could use a swamp/evaporative cooling, but we get too humid to be effective and not be fighting mold. If you have access to the drilling or earth moving equipment, then a ground loop heat pump would be awesome.

@Robert Winkworth Get a few solar panels and an inverter if possible. You could boost your shop power during the day, when its needed most You can get mini splits that run 100% off solar without even needing an inverter. (Signature Solar here in the states sells them)