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CutterUp Diesel Lab

105 members • $15/month

21 contributions to CutterUp Diesel Lab
Brain 🧠 dump on shop stuff ( works now )
Sorry boys first unload never finished. Got it figured out now. Just talked about new shop and spit balling ideas
1 like • 13d
I've been in 3 shops over the years with dynos: 1 roller/chassis dyno (which actually used a water brake, not a mass roller. It was old when we installed in in 1994) and 2 engine dynos(1 water brake, 1 eddy). All of them were part of rhe main building. Both engine dynos were outside walls, with a concrete filled cinder block wall and bullet resistant glass separating it from the shop. The chassis dyno was just near one of the roll up doors, but we kept the cars facing outward, so the engines were outside the shop. We never scattered an engine with it, but the sheet metal building wouldn't have done much for safety. For practicality sake,.I would have the dyno room at least attached to a wall of rhe shop, with "internal" door access. The cost of a needed second set of tools, or lost time running back and forth to get tools, would irritate the crap outta me. Also, I'd think running power/etc would be easier if it were attached. As for the lifts, I'd put either 2 or three angling in along one wall. (Depending on space). You could have an aisle wide enough down the center for access, but by having them angled, like a 1 direction parking lot, getting the vehicles in/out and on/off would be easier. I'd also consider putting in another door between the 2 sides, so that if you need to fetch something from one side, you dont have to go all the way to rhe front, and around. Im a bit lazy, but inalso have some foot issues, and minimizing the amount of walking seems like a good idea.
Well got my rebar in
Well this weekend for you guys that didn’t see I got my rebar down. Some welded some tied. And yes I still feel like my legs are going to fall off. Lol
Well got my rebar in
0 likes • 26d
Looking good! 👍 Are you going to do a single pour with no joints or will there be stress reliefs in the slab? Given how large the temp swings can be for you, I'm curious what the best practice is. Im guessing single, un-reliwved slab, but i still wonder.
Shop cooling
If you have cooling in your shops for summer what do you use ?
Shop cooling
0 likes • 29d
I live in Central Texas, and my small home shop is just a mini split. If we were father southwest, we could use a swamp/evaporative cooling, but we get too humid to be effective and not be fighting mold. If you have access to the drilling or earth moving equipment, then a ground loop heat pump would be awesome.
1 like • 29d
@Robert Winkworth Get a few solar panels and an inverter if possible. You could boost your shop power during the day, when its needed most You can get mini splits that run 100% off solar without even needing an inverter. (Signature Solar here in the states sells them)
500,000 mile 68RFE trans: good story.
A video teardown of a 68RFE after 500,000 miles, after losing 4th. And the internals are still in pretty dang good shape. But, the owner serviced the trans every 15,000 miles https://www.facebook.com/share/v/1BJsiTVTKX/
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What to prioritize
Im finally working through my long list of stuff to get done (moving gravel, pouring concrete, builond a small shop, finixng and seel8mg an NA Miata, ec ,etc, etc) so I can get my 2nd gen. Im looking to build a 600-650 rw hp 4x4, wirh and automatic, extended cab, long bed. I would *prefer* a hydroboost, but i assume I can retrofit. Given my hp desire, ive been told a 160 pump wont work ata ll, and that a 180 pump cpupd be iffy. (I have a list of parts including head, tuebo, cam, etc, that should get me there), but I have one question/concern: how to get a 215 ppump? I can get a manual trans, then have to get a 47/48 RE core, and reconfig for an auto, which is a ton of work on top of my alteady substantial list, or I have to find a 215 pump in the wild. The places ive called all need a 215 pump as a core. (I guess the 215 pump cams are scarce?) Ive seen a couple 215 pumps listed here and there, but folks want $2000 or more for a stock/unlmolested one that will still need another $2k in parts and rebuild. Thoughts or suggestions?
0 likes • Jun 25
Thanks, man. I'veasked a couple places if they could upgrade a 160 pump to a 215, and was told they needed a 215 as a core. Ill figure it out, as I still have time (I just swapped the front loaded on my tractor to a quick attach system, and have a new heat pump arriving Monday, and, and, and, lol. I know you're in way deeper having to get your shop set up. The list never ends.
1-10 of 21
Jeff MacDonald
3
34 points to level up
@jeff-macdonald-3911
Former gas tuner, with a '92 CK2500 6.5 turbo, finally upgrading to a 12v.

Active 2d ago
Joined Apr 9, 2026
San Saba
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