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Next Grade Academy

244 members • Free

8 contributions to Next Grade Academy
Footwork drill for climbing
I was climbing with a friend recently they had poor foot placements. When I was starting out, I had this issue as well. One of my coaches recommended a drill to make my foot placements as quiet as possible. You don’t have to do this all the time to get the benefits, just try on something easy to you for a few climbs and see if it help. cheers. p.s. 6 week online climbing bootcamp starts July 2nd shoot me a message to apply to join!
0 likes • Jun 12
@Ed Struble I love this one, especially when I downclimb an easy grade with as few of moves as possible.
Stength vs. Technique - What is holding you back?
I asked all my followers on instagram what they think is holding them back a while ago. Interestingly, this was slightly towards strength. I found this really interesting..... what do you think is keeping you from hitting the next grade? Is it something other than this? Feel free to drop a comment. This will help me make content and do research based on your obstacles, simplify the information and make a video, just as I did with the footholds and Route planning
Poll
22 members have voted
Stength vs. Technique - What is holding you back?
0 likes • Apr 27
@Marty Black overhangs are your best friend. I've been floored how quickly I went from never doing a pull-up in my life to doing multiple in a row. I spend way too much time on overhangs and I think it's made a huge difference for me.
1 like • Apr 27
I need to build strength in a lot of weird places like my wrists and hip flexors and the like. Shoulders and arms have really progressed but I struggle on moves where I need to push off in a weird way because I'm not long enough to just reach the next hold
Warmups? What are you guys doing.
My minimum warmup is 5-10 minutes and is super simple. I do this 3 times: 1. 6 each side -Dynamic stretch "Greatest stretch ever" video here - preps my hips, back, shoulders a bit as well. Just gets everything in end range. I will play around a bit on the yoga mat before and after as well if I'm feeling stiff - found a video on youtube of it and put it here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-CiWQ2IvY34&t=9s 2. Hangboard on progressively thinner holds - I want to warm up my finger tendons for the really little holds. A physio once taught me you need to put a ton of load on the fingers to warm them up. Set 1 - juggy holds in the hangboard, Set 2 - set a bit more thin, Set 3- set I go till failure and try to keep it under 10 seconds to make sure I'm loading them a lot I absolutely hate being injured so this is how I prevent that, havent had a finger injury in a few years since being disciplined with this warmup. Also I'm definitely getting more flexible slowly What do you guys do? Or are you warming up at all?
3 likes • Apr 27
Exercise band has been amazing for my shoulders. Grab both ends and pull out as far as possible when the band is at my waist, should, arms fully expanded over my head, and then as I put my arms behind my back (while not letting go). When in the back position I'll do this around the world motion to get movement going. I picked some of this up from my color guard days. I also like an assisted pistol squat on a 30" box. I'll go down until I can set my foot down and it's helping my hip flexors.
How did you start climbing?
I always love asking people this story, curious what got you all in this crazy world
How did you start climbing?
2 likes • Apr 8
My older sister started climbing a few years ago and wanted me to do it with her while I was visiting. We climb when we travel together, but I haven't had access to a gym until our local one opened this past January. What's funny is that I was telling her my progress and she said she had some catching up to do now that I climb four to five times a week. She's in Utah, though, so she has so many climbing options.
2 likes • Apr 9
@Mike Vert years and years ago my husband took me down to St. George to go repelling off a 150 foot cliff and I kind of hated it. 😂 I'm scared of heights. I haven't done any outdoor climbing since.
Rainy Red River Gorge trip
We mostly got rained out on our trip to Red River Gorge this weekend, but we were able get out to Muir Valley for a few short climbs today before we leave tomorrow morning. Everything was super wet, and the other climbers we were going with bailed, so I just led up an easier short slab on the Practice Wall to set up top rope for the family. Gave my wife her first lead belaying lesson too, and she did amazing (though I wasn’t taking any big whippers here). We ended the day at Miguel’s after hiking more around Muir Valley and scoping out what were going to do when we come back with better weather!
Rainy Red River Gorge trip
3 likes • Apr 8
Got any tips for learning how to belay? It's on my bucket list
1-8 of 8
Jaclyn Day
3
36points to level up
@jaclyn-day-6670
Short beta girl at a whopping 5'2". Current projects sit in v2-v3 range. Seen hanging out at the Pad in Binghamton most days

Active 95d ago
Joined Apr 1, 2025
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