Some people have tried only one. Others have tried a dozen. Almost nobody is still using a dozen. I want to know what survived. Not what impressed you in the demo — what you opened again on a Tuesday when you had actual work to do. Mine, honestly: 1️⃣ Claude for anything involving code, writing, thinking through a problem, or brainstorming. 2️⃣ OpenArt for every image the business needs, either directly on OpenArt or through their new MCP. 3️⃣ Github Copilot for all non-Claude code needs or when I need to run sessions in parallel with different subscriptions. That's basically it. Everything else I've tried has been genuinely interesting and then quietly abandoned within a week or two. The pattern I've noticed in what sticks: 🔥 The tools I kept are the ones that slotted into something I was already doing. 👎🏼 The ones I dropped all required me to build a new habit around them first. ❓ So — what's still open in your tabs, and what did you quietly stop using? I'm as interested in the second one if you have some!

If you're printing straight from MakerWorld profiles and never touching settings, you are probably getting good results; but you're leaving a lot on the table. An example you can use today One of the first thing I always look at when I open a print from MakerWorld is the Sparse Infill. ❓What is Sparse Infill? Sparse Infill is the type of linework that goes inside the body of the model, giving it structure, strength and ensuring the walls have something to anchor to. You can control the Infill Pattern as well as the Infill % (plus a bunch of others but we will cover that another time). I attached an example of the 3 different infill patterns (Grid, Gyroid and Honeycomb) as well as 3 examples of Sparse Infill density and how it would look inside a cube model. ⬆️ The higher the value = the more filament it uses and the stronger the model become. 💪🏼 ⬇️ The lower the value = less filament is used and you can lose some strength. 🫰🏼 Always keep your sparse infill above 5% and you rarely need to increase it past 15% except for models that will take on stress like shelves, brackets etc. That's one thing out of a full free course: 3D Printing 101 — Level Up Your Bambu Studio Skills. It's free, and like the rest of the free library it opens at Level 2 — which you reach just by being active here. Comment on this or anything else and you're on your way! 🔰 If you've been printing a while: what's the setting you learned late that you wish you'd known on day one?

⌨️ Press Win + V. That's it, that's the tip. If you've never done it, do it now — you'll get a panel with everything you've copied recently, not just the last thing. Text, images, all of it. 🤯 Why it's genuinely a workflow change and not a party trick: it kills the copy-paste-go-back-copy-again loop entirely. Pulling three settings out of one document into another becomes one trip instead of three. You can pin the items you use constantly so they survive a restart. It handles images, so screenshots stack up rather than overwriting each other. And it'll paste as plain text, which means no more fighting formatting that came along for the ride. If you have to turn it on the first time, Windows will prompt you the first time you hit the shortcut. That's one of five in 5 Windows 11 OS Tips to Save You Time & Money — a Quick Win, about fifteen minutes, and it's part of Premium ($5/mo or $50/yr, which covers every paid course). The other four are the same shape: things already on your machine that give you time back permanently. Did you already know about Win+V, or is this new? I'm curious what the split is — it's the tip that gets the biggest reaction when I show people in person.

Prints that used to be fine have gone rough. Surfaces look fuzzy. There's stringing you didn't used to get. Before you touch a single slicer setting — check whether the filament has absorbed moisture, because if it has, no setting will save you. The test: Grab your spool, try to bend a piece off the end. Does it snap like a dry twig or bend nicely like a fresh branch? Check out the video and try it yourself! 👎🏼 If it snaps, it's water logged and you should dry it! 👍🏼 If it is still pliable and breaking it requires a considerable amount of flexing. ✅ The fix: dry it. A filament dryer if you have one, 45–50°C for 4–6 hours for PLA. No dryer? Most enclosed printers now have a drying function for this reason, and a lot of people started there. What does not work is leaving it out and hoping — humidity is the thing that put water in it, so more air is more of the problem. 🔰 And the part people skip: PLA absorbs moisture too. The "only PETG and nylon care about this" thing is not true, it's just that PLA degrades more slowly and so you notice later. This is the quick test BEFORE you hit print and see all the visual consequences of wet filament. Anyone had a spool go bad on them? How long had it been sitting out if at all? 🤔

👋🏼 We have had a small bump in new members, to all of you WELCOME!! Things around here are still developing and I hope to hear from you all so I can begin planning content that YOU want to see. 🫵🏼 🙏🏼 So my ask of everyone who has joined: 1) Drop a comment on this post your name 2) Share 1 that that you are hoping to learn most here 3) Tell us something you are awesome at! If you haven't already, check out the welcome post to understand a bit more about the TCoops Studios community.