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Owned by Tyler

TCoops Studio 🔥 // Are you looking to learn more about 3D Printing, better understand how to ACTUALLY use AI or just love to learn new tech? Join us!

38 contributions to 3D Printing, AI Tools & Tech🔥
Windows has had a clipboard history for years and almost nobody uses it
⌨️ Press Win + V. That's it, that's the tip. If you've never done it, do it now — you'll get a panel with everything you've copied recently, not just the last thing. Text, images, all of it. 🤯 Why it's genuinely a workflow change and not a party trick: it kills the copy-paste-go-back-copy-again loop entirely. Pulling three settings out of one document into another becomes one trip instead of three. You can pin the items you use constantly so they survive a restart. It handles images, so screenshots stack up rather than overwriting each other. And it'll paste as plain text, which means no more fighting formatting that came along for the ride. If you have to turn it on the first time, Windows will prompt you the first time you hit the shortcut. That's one of five in 5 Windows 11 OS Tips to Save You Time & Money — a Quick Win, about fifteen minutes, and it's part of Premium ($5/mo or $50/yr, which covers every paid course). The other four are the same shape: things already on your machine that give you time back permanently. Did you already know about Win+V, or is this new? I'm curious what the split is — it's the tip that gets the biggest reaction when I show people in person.
Windows has had a clipboard history for years and almost nobody uses it
0 likes • 3d
@Gordon Graham It was introduced in Windows 10! I am Windows 11 but it should be in the same spot! Press Windows + I (i) Then go to System > Clipboard to turn it on!
Getting a market booth ready with displays
I have been prepping for the University District Night Market that is today (Sept 23rd) here in Calgary and this is my first market so I am going in somewhat blind. Thankfully, I have my H2D Laser Combo which I am using to design and craft all my own signage for the market. And in the background I am staining boards and printing brackets / parts from STLFlix for my displays (https://platform.stlflix.com/product/fair-vendor). [Video provided by STLFlix] Without my 3d printers, I would be buying all the displays premade and making with what I can put together. But with access to a large variety of files on MakerWorld but also through my other Subscriptions like STLFlix, I can customize my booth and make it feel like my own. I purchased a rare lifetime access to STLFlix in the early days and I DON'T regret it one bit, I will share pictures once it’s all up and ready for prime time; in the mean time here are a few snapshots of what I am working on!
Getting a market booth ready with displays
0 likes • 5d
@Lisa Graham Great idea, just to confirm, you would want to add loops to the lateral arm with the magnets on them but on the inside of the bracket? The file let's you customize all of these settings, it's a long list but it's powerful!! File Parameters Bracket Size - Vertical_Arm_Length / Horizontal_Arm_Length: arm lengths, 60–240 mm (defaults 200 / 220 mm) - Bar_Width / Bar_Depth: bar cross-section (default 20 × 12 mm, which grows automatically for large magnets) - Outer_Corner_Radius, Inner_Fillet_Radius: corner styling and strength - Edge_Chamfer: softens the top and bottom edges Hanger Loops - Loop_Count: 0–6 hanger points - Loop_Style: round eyelet, square tab, or a hole straight through the arm - Hole_Shape: circle for chain or S-hooks, slot for ribbon or straps - Hole_Diameter, Slot_Length: size the hole to fit your hardware - Loop_Placement: centred on the arm or measured from the tip - Loop_Spacing: centre-to-centre distance; match it to the holes in your sign - Loop_Center_Shift: nudges the centred group toward the tip or the corner - Loop_Drop, Loop_Wall, Loop_Thickness, Loop_Neck_Fillet: loop shape and strength - Loop_Alignment: where the loop sits through the bar's thickness. Bottom prints with no supports; centre and top need supports. Magnets - Magnet_Arm: vertical arm, horizontal arm, both, or none - Magnet_Face: outer edge (the side against the canopy leg) or the flat face - Magnet_Shape: round disc or rectangular block - Magnet_Diameter, Magnet_Block_Length, Magnet_Block_Width, Pocket_Depth: your magnet's size (defaults are for 25 × 5 mm round magnets) - Magnet_Clearance: extra room for glue (default 0.2 mm) - Magnets_Per_Arm, Magnet_End_Margin: how many magnets and how far they sit from the ends - Magnet_Wall: minimum plastic around each pocket - Magnet_Fit: thickens the whole bar, adds local pads at each magnet, or leaves the bar unchanged Strap Slots (optional)
1 like • 5d
@Lisa Graham Ahh yes I see what you mean! I can add that for sure! I also plan on adding some "addons" you can attached as "weights" to the bottom of your sign as well. Great thinking!
Most people never open half of Bambu Studio. Here's the part worth opening.
If you're printing straight from MakerWorld profiles and never touching settings, you are probably getting good results; but you're leaving a lot on the table. An example you can use today One of the first thing I always look at when I open a print from MakerWorld is the Sparse Infill. ❓What is Sparse Infill? Sparse Infill is the type of linework that goes inside the body of the model, giving it structure, strength and ensuring the walls have something to anchor to. You can control the Infill Pattern as well as the Infill % (plus a bunch of others but we will cover that another time). I attached an example of the 3 different infill patterns (Grid, Gyroid and Honeycomb) as well as 3 examples of Sparse Infill density and how it would look inside a cube model. ⬆️ The higher the value = the more filament it uses and the stronger the model become. 💪🏼 ⬇️ The lower the value = less filament is used and you can lose some strength. 🫰🏼 Always keep your sparse infill above 5% and you rarely need to increase it past 15% except for models that will take on stress like shelves, brackets etc. That's one thing out of a full free course: 3D Printing 101 — Level Up Your Bambu Studio Skills. It's free, and like the rest of the free library it opens at Level 2 — which you reach just by being active here. Comment on this or anything else and you're on your way! 🔰 If you've been printing a while: what's the setting you learned late that you wish you'd known on day one?
Most people never open half of Bambu Studio. Here's the part worth opening.
10d • 
Q&A
What's the difference between TPU and TPU for AMS?
Hey Tyler...can you help with this info? (Before I buy the wrong one)
1 like • 10d
The biggest is whether it can go in your AMS. Standard TPU cannot be used in an AMS. It’s like trying to push a flimsy spaghetti noddle through a tube. You can ONLY use TPU for AMS in an AMS but the trade off is how firm it is. TPU comes in "shore hardness" and higher the number the harder it is. TPU for AMS is very hard and honestly I don’t find it very flexible at all; I’ve printed a Benchy with it. If you’re looking for flex, you want a lower number but you have to feed it manually through the external spool and through the TPU bypass in the back of your printer. You also cannot feed TPU through your standard PTFE tubes that feed to your tool head. There is a port on the back of your printer that will say TPU Inlet; you have to feed a PTFE tube through that and straight into the tool head. I don’t have an X2D so I can’t validate but here is some Bambu Wiki. https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x2d/manual/tpu-printing-guide
How to tell if your 3d printer filament is wet, in about 15 seconds 💦
Prints that used to be fine have gone rough. Surfaces look fuzzy. There's stringing you didn't used to get. Before you touch a single slicer setting — check whether the filament has absorbed moisture, because if it has, no setting will save you. The test: Grab your spool, try to bend a piece off the end. Does it snap like a dry twig or bend nicely like a fresh branch? Check out the video and try it yourself! 👎🏼 If it snaps, it's water logged and you should dry it! 👍🏼 If it is still pliable and breaking it requires a considerable amount of flexing. ✅ The fix: dry it. A filament dryer if you have one, 45–50°C for 4–6 hours for PLA. No dryer? Most enclosed printers now have a drying function for this reason, and a lot of people started there. What does not work is leaving it out and hoping — humidity is the thing that put water in it, so more air is more of the problem. 🔰 And the part people skip: PLA absorbs moisture too. The "only PETG and nylon care about this" thing is not true, it's just that PLA degrades more slowly and so you notice later. This is the quick test BEFORE you hit print and see all the visual consequences of wet filament. Anyone had a spool go bad on them? How long had it been sitting out if at all? 🤔
0 likes • 10d
@Gordon Graham Yea - Flow Calibrations can be tricky, I am terrible at the "Id this one better or is that one better" game. Flow is just 1 of the factors in printing as well, the challenge is if there is another factor ahead of it is off, calibrating the flow won't fix it. Are you using Bambu Lab filament? Standard 0.4mm nozzle? My initial thoughts are tempurature or speed; as I know @Lisa Graham said the filament has been sufficiently dried.
0 likes • 10d
@Gordon Graham That one has fairly minimal stringing so I wouldn't worry about that; but this one does have some other flaws that can help pinpoint the issue; speed or temperature of the model during printing. You can see where the filament is dropping in spots it overhands, which is always a case of either not enough fan speed or too fast, or both. Are you printing from Bambu Studio or through the Bamby Handy app?
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Tyler Cooper
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@tyler-cooper-6447
I’m Tyler Cooper from TCoops Studios. I’m a tech guru that loves to share what he knows about technology like 3D Printing, AI, Development and more!

Active 13h ago
Joined Mar 8, 2026
Calgary, Alberta