@Craig Jones It's just plastic! 😁 and unless you spend like a day and a half with 220 grit, you'll never damage the lens lol. If you're worried and want to protect yourself on those cars, double up your tape. That extra layer goes a long way. Especially on a job like this because you will need to use a lower grit. Like 600 or 400. But the process is the exact same, just a couple more steps! And you might go through a couple extra pieces of sandpaper, especially at those lower grits. But if you take your time to get the scratches out from those lower grits, you'll create fantastic results every time. The whole goal of taking sandpaper to the lens (and not just polishing them) is because you need to remove the entire old clear coat. The lower grits act the exact same as higher grits. You'll be able to see what is left of the clear coat on those lower grits relatively easily too. You're doing great @Craig Jones! And I can't recommend the headlight magic kit more. I've turned their system into a full time business for the last 3-4 months, with wonderful results

@Craig Jones LET'S GOOOOO!! Good work! That's a beautiful headlight. Remind me what system you use?

@Sammy Cruz those turned out good! On the one I restored, his lenses started out as the texture of p80😂 I didn't get the same results you did. So good job on that. I do have a question for you though. If you started with p80, how did you work out the scarring from that aggressive grit?

@Sammy Cruz how long did this one take you and what did you charge

Something I learned from a professional logo maker (after I designed my own, of course🙄) is to avoid gradients. They look slick, but my own logo, for example, can't be embroidered on a shirt. I need to simplify so that I can. If gradients don't bother you though, I think it looks sweet

@Andrew Tucker the sunset in my logo, or the smooth shift from blue to silver in the op's logo. When there's shading and not solid, simple coloring

@Jose Zamora Slick video! And it very much depends on the headlight. Something like that camry might even be good starting at 1k. Others will need 220 grit. The way to tell is start with something higher (800 or 1k) and see if it bites. If it's removing the old clear coat, it works. If it feels like it's skating across the surface of the lens, go down a grit. You'll learn where you have to start once you start doing a lot of vehicles

You could also use a Big Ugly pad for your knees. I would use one of those before a chair because I'm kind of up and down and all around when doing a resto, but it still saves my knees.