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102 contributions to Paintless Dent Repair Training
FOLLOW UP: MAN-MADE HIGHS x NATURAL
Pushmore Academy! Yesterday, I posted a lesson breaking down natural vs. man-made high spots and how I approach each one based on the anatomy of the zones and the energy we're working with. In this video, I take that lesson a step further by mapping it out visually, helping you better understand what we're seeing, why the metal behaves differently, and how that influences our approach. As soon as possible, I'll follow this up with a hands-on repair demonstration to bring it all together! Moving forward, I'm going to do my best to layer each lesson in three stages: 1. WRITTEN – Understand the principles and the science. 2. MAPPED OUT – Visualize the anatomy, energy, and approach. 3. REPAIR DEMO – Watch those principles applied to actual metal. My goal is simple: Don't just show you WHAT to do. Help you understand WHY you're doing it. The more ways we can approach a lesson, the better chance we have of making it stick! Let me know down below if this approach is helping you connect the dots! Now WORK HARD and GO BE GREAT.
FOLLOW UP: MAN-MADE HIGHS x NATURAL
0 likes • 31m
@Dean Berman 🫡⚔️
0 likes • 28m
This really will be one of the most useful lesson to me personally Worked on really big hail last year and rails were a pain due to these outside zones collapsing and me not understanding when or why that happened Will definitely be super helpful for my hail cars coming !
NATURAL HIGHS VS MAN-MADE ⚔️
Precision. Control. Metal Behavior. Intensity. Students, I want to challenge you to look beyond what your light is showing you and begin understanding WHY the metal is behaving the way it does. Two highs can appear nearly identical under your light, yet require a different approach to knockdown. Why? Because how the high was created matters. 1. Understanding the Difference Let’s begin with two categories. Natural highs — stored energy and crowns When an impact displaces metal, the surrounding material is forced to accommodate that displacement. Depending on the damage, we may develop crowns, tension, and stored elastic energy. These features are part of a larger system of displacement. As we begin working these natural highs, our approach is generally patient and progressive. We establish precision, develop our rhythm, follow our pattern, and work through our passes while carefully increasing intensity as the metal gives us feedback. We’re not racing to knock the crown down. We’re allowing the metal to tell us what it needs. Man-made highs — pushed or pulled Now let’s consider a high that YOU created. Maybe you pushed too far with your tool. Maybe you used a glue tab and pulled a small mound above the original panel contour. At the very top of that high, we can develop a localized zone of compression associated with the tight curvature of the peak, immediately surrounded by metal that has been stretched into tension. The surrounding metal doesn’t necessarily contain the same outward-radiating stored-energy pattern we associate with an impact-related crown. The important distinction is the local geometry and how the metal has been redistributed. And that changes how we approach intensity. 2. The Danger of Being Too Timid Imagine you’ve created a small, rounded high with a glue pull. You begin knocking it down. Your precision is good. Your rhythm is controlled. You’re working your pattern and your passes. But your intensity is too low to effectively move the concentrated peak.
1 like • 17h
That is a great lesson and a problem I've been dealing with for a while on rails Everytime I'm working on a "big" dent on a rail, I end up with lows around it But until now I was thinking that this was because I pulled to hard and some metal was pulled somewhat down during the process Looking forward to apply that !
First hailed car
I had occasions to work on hailed hoods for my wholesale account but this was my first real hailed car, and first roof It is still P2P as there was a lot going on on this case because some trees fell on it during storm But I treated roof and hail damage on rails like if it was PDR Not 100%, a few could have use a wet sand or more minutes but that's details a customer would never notice so I'm pretty happy with the results
First hailed car
1 like • 13d
I just got myself the same stand but the model with 2 flat supports that makes it I think easier to put down hoods on your own or to place hatches on it It is great ! Also I think you should try to tie down more vertically, as this stand has multiple anchor points you can really tie it down every where and it will make it more stable As you're practicing hand tools it won't be a problem but if you start pushing with a rod I think it will lift up if you're just crossing your ropes in the middle ring
Overstreched Dacia
Uff, this will give me long nights in my bodyshop. Overstreched dents, Dacia steel and the Var looks like a Golfball. First, what do you think, cold glue before Start with pushing? Cheerz from Switzerland
Overstreched Dacia
2 likes • 22d
I m not a pro but I don't think cold glue is the move for the roof otherwise you might overstretch them even more @Dean Berman has a great video on YouTube talking about an oversized Texas hail dent He explains very well how to stabilise the dent and prevent it from oil canning
1-10 of 102
Brice Maillet
5
162 points to level up
@brice-maillet-7859
29yo, Body Tech in France, started PDR in March 25

Active 27m ago
Joined Feb 15, 2026
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