While I have been working to learn autobody for several year’s now, this work is something I do at home and take great pleasure in doing. Finding a starting point was not easy to do as the pros in my corner of the world act as if this should be a secret with no newcomers allowed, so in-person conversations don’t happen. I am grateful to find forums and site like this to interact with and learn my mistakes from. This ford truck has been my first commitment to a full frame off restoration. This has been a 2-1/2yr endeavor to this point as all the work has been by my hand. If I could not purchase what I needed I fabricated it. I am very proud of this truck but I do realize that because I was so lacking in knowledge this paint job will eventually fail. After some time practicing the Chevy truck was the first time blending the hood into the fender for a color match. The bed was my first bed-liner spray. Thank you for opportunity to learn and a place to communicate with others learning. I am currently working a obs Chevy. I am taking this one to bare steel replacing the rusted areas or sanding out the rust then covering in epoxy for I start any filler work. I’m driven to step up my game on this one and do it properly.

A little while ago I painted up this '70 challenger that came out pretty great. I figured it'd be helpful to put a little video together about the exact process that I follow to paint a project like this - that isn't necessarily 100% flawless, but better than most. Hope it helps!

From wheels to fenders

Hi, I'm Dan I recently found your excellent youtube channel when searching for information on how to properly paint with automotive urethane. I'm a guitar builder, switching from nitrocellulose to these auto paints, quite a different animal! Currently experimenting with Tamco stuff, setting up a proper spray booth/and gear.

Is this an error? Water making the paper produce shallower scratches should make it act like a higher/finer grit, right? Yet the bullets below seem to say the opposite. If water makes the paper produce shallower scratches shouldn’t wet 400 product shallower scratches more like dry 600? Am I reading it wrong? Water lubricates the paper and produces shallower scratches than dry sanding at the same grit. Wet P600 lands in roughly the same place as dry P400. - Dry sanding before sealer: P400 - Wet sanding before sealer: P600 Same final result, but the path to get there is a little bit different.