In the tree world, we call this "same-limb rigging," and it’s one of those moves that can be a total lifesaver or a total disaster depending on how you set it up. ​The main thing to remember is physics. When you cut a piece of the limb you’re standing on and it "drops" into the rigging, that energy travels straight through the wood and into your feet (and your tie-in point). ​⚠️ The Golden Rules of Same-Limb Rigging: ​The "Weight Limit": Never rig a piece that is heavy enough to compromise the limb’s structural integrity. If that limb snaps, you’re going down with it. ​Small Bites: Take smaller sections than you normally would. You want to minimize the shock load. ​Rigging Point vs. Your Position: Always try to have your rigging point (where the rope goes through a block or crotch) closer to the trunk than where you are standing. If the limb fails at the rigging point, you want to be on the "safe" side of the break. ​🪢 Setup Essentials ​To do this safely, you need gear that absorbs energy. You don't want a "static" setup that jerks the limb hard. ​A Whoopie Sling is perfect here because you can get your rigging block tight to the limb, reducing the distance the wood falls before the rope catches it. The Notch 3/4" x 3'-5' Whoopie Sling is a solid choice for this because it’s easy to adjust with one hand while you’re out on a limb. ​You also want a rigging line with a bit of "give." The Samson 1/2" x 150' Pro-Master is a 3-strand rope that offers more stretch than high-tech double braids, which helps cushion the blow to the limb you're standing on. ​💡 Pro-Tip for the Crew: ​If you’re rigging to the same limb, communication is everything. Your ground person (or mini skid operator) needs to be ready to "run" the rope. A hard catch by the groundie can snap the limb you’re on. They should let the piece run a bit to dissipate that energy.

In rigging, a butt hitch is a simple yet essential technique used to tie off the "butt" (the fat, bottom end) of a log or branch. ​While a top-tie keeps the piece upright, the butt hitch is used to control the swing or to keep the piece from kicking out and smashing into the trunk (or the climber!) as it's lowered. ​🛠️ Why Use a Butt Hitch? - ​Total Control: It keeps the piece parallel to the trunk while it’s being lowered. No wild swinging. - ​Balanced Loads: On long, heavy limbs, you often use a "top-and-butt" rig. The top line takes the weight, and the butt hitch (connected to a tag line) guides the piece to the ground. - ​Safety: It prevents the log from "pivoting" unexpectedly. If you only tie the top, the bottom can kick back toward you like a lethal see-saw.

Here is a "0 to $100k Blueprint" tailored for your Skool community members. It is stripped of your personal details so it applies to any solo operator starting out. 🚀 The Solo Operator’s Roadmap: $0 to $100k (Without Debt) Hitting your first $100,000 feels impossible when you’re staring at a calendar with no jobs. But if you break it down, $100k is just $8,333 a month. That is roughly four $2,000 days a month. That’s it. The mistake most guys make is thinking they need a bucket truck and a chipper to start. You don't. You need a saddle, a saw, and a strategy. Here is the Lean Model to hitting $100k in Year 1: Phase 1: The "No-Chipper" Model (Months 1-6) Goal: High profit margins, zero debt. The quickest way to go broke is buying a chipper before you have the cash flow to feed it. Chippers equal maintenance, fuel, and dump fees. The Strategy: * Sell "Drop & Stack": Market to homeowners with acreage or wood stoves. Offer a discount if they keep the wood. * The Pitch: "I can do this for $1,500 if I stack the wood. If you hire the big guys, they’ll charge $2,500 because they have to haul it." * Rent for the "Must-Haul" Jobs: If a client demands removal, rent a chipper/mini-skid for that day. * The Rule: Charge the customer the rental fee + 20%. They pay for the machine, not you. * Low Overhead: Work out of a pickup truck. Don't upgrade until the truck can't physically carry the cash you're making. Phase 2: The "Gap Filler" (Contract Climbing) Goal: stability and networking. In the beginning, the phone won't ring every day. On the days you don't have your own leads, do not sit on the couch. The Strategy: * Sub-contract yourself: Sell your climbing services to other companies for $400-$600/day. * Why this works: You have zero costs. No gas, no dump fees, no sales effort. It is pure profit. * The Math: 2 days of contract climbing a week = ~$50k/year. You only need to find another $50k in your own jobs to hit your goal. Phase 3: The "Minimum Minimum" Goal: Stop working for free.

Two Is Better Than One: The Power of the Double Tie-In ​Ever feel like you’re fighting gravity just to stay facing your work? We’ve all been there—out on a long limb tip, swinging like a barn door every time we reach for the saw. ​Enter the Double Tie-In (or dual-anchoring). ​While efficiency is the name of the game, taking that extra minute to set a second line or lanyard isn't just about safety redundancy—it’s about superior work positioning. ​Why you should be triangulating: - ​🚫 Stop the Swing: By triangulating your position with two anchor points, you lock yourself in space. No more fighting to stay balanced; you can focus entirely on the cut. - ​📐 The Geometry of Comfort: A second tie-in allows you to distribute your weight. It reduces the load on your harness in one specific spot and makes those awkward, twisted cuts much more manageable. - ​🛡️ Ultimate Redundancy: In the unlikely event of a primary anchor failure or a cut line, that second point is your lifeline. It is the gold standard for safety when using a chainsaw aloft. - ​🚶‍♂️ Walk the Plank: Need to get to the very tip of a flimsy lateral? A second line from a higher, opposing lead supports your weight, effectively turning a sketch walk into a controlled descent. ​Pro Tip: ​You don't always need a second full climbing system. A long lanyard (flip line) or a quick redirect can often give you just enough triangulation to stabilize your shot.

Wich hitch do you use ? I use the VT when climbing.