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The beginners course
I'm currently writing the beginners course, it will take a lot of time. But in then meantime, what would you like me to write about? I can cover whatever you like. Would you like me to build a cheap hive? Would you like me to guide you through the different systems/hives? Go through how I clean materials? It's up to you! Hit me with questions!
The beginners course
The one print body nuke
I’m back and working with bees again. I’ll hope you all had great holidays! This is the one print nuke designed to fit on a smaller printer like the Neptune 4 Pro! The work is in progress but it will be ready and updated on Thingiverse soon enough. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7265084 I’m putting some stl-files related to beekeeping there. As my goal is to make 300 queens the upcoming season I will be needing a lot of nukes. The cheap ones from china is not that good and the original costs about 35 usdollars, this will be in the 6-7 dollars, approximately the same as the china imports. This also makes a good alternative for colorcoding. 500-700 gram filament per nuke.
The one print body nuke
My first post on Skool
This is a couple of wooden hives I bought dirt cheap, they’re in the local format ”norsk” which means Norwegian. They are similar in size with Dadant for reference. I did some burning and lindseed oil, the hives are going places where I won’t be able to do as regular checkups as other more commercial hives, hence the bigger format. What kind of hives do you use?
My first post on Skool
100-150 dollar top bar hive
Building a prototype for a dirt cheap top bar hive. The only tools needed are a circular saw and an electric screwdriver. And a propane burner (if you like that) Will get back on a tutorial when everything fits!
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100-150 dollar top bar hive
Why I replace my wax every year
The comb that bees use for brood becomes darker with every passing year. This happens because beeswax gradually accumulates residues from honey, pollen, propolis and, most importantly, cocoon remnants left behind by developing brood. Over time, each cell carries the history of everything that has happened in that colony. Like all living organisms, honey bees are affected by diseases. These include viruses, bacteria, and fungi. Some of these pathogens the bees can manage themselves by removing sick brood and dead individuals. Others are far more persistent, remaining in the colony environment for a long time or ultimately leading to colony collapse. In nature, bees solve this problem through swarming. When a colony swarms, the bees leave with a substantial honey reserve, enough to establish a new colony from scratch. A swarming colony is therefore fully prepared to build an entirely new home using fresh wax. This new wax is produced from the honey they bring with them. Roughly four kilograms of honey are required to produce one kilogram of wax. By doing this, the bees continuously renew their comb. Fresh wax helps isolate and reduce the impact of many bee diseases. Even so, it is still recommended to feed a swarm with a 50/50 sugar syrup. This ensures that the carried honey that may contain a patogen is primarily used for wax production rather than stored as feed. Feeding stimulates wax production, and any excess stored in the cells will consist of sugar rather than unknown honey. It also creates an artificial nectar flow, encouraging the queen to start laying eggs quickly and consistently. Pathogens that may be present in old comb include: • European foulbroodcaused by Melissococcus plutonius • American foulbroodcaused by Paenibacillus larvae • Chalkbrooda fungal disease caused by Ascosphaera apis • Sacbrooda viral disease caused by Sacbrood virus (SBV) • Deformed Wing Virus (DWV) • Acute Bee Paralysis Virus (ABPV) • Chronic Bee Paralysis Virus (CBPV) My method for replacing wax is based on overwintering colonies on two brood boxes with frames, depending on frame size. With Farrar equipment, I use three boxes. The lower box consists of the old brood comb. The upper box contains frames from the past season’s honey harvest, which have been filled during winter feeding with sugar solution, or honey for those who choose to overwinter on honey.
Why I replace my wax every year
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