What is my size in a commercial pattern? Commercial patterns are used often by home sewers, therefore it is important that we know how to interpret them. Brands such as Butterick, Simplicity, New Look, Kwik Sew, Burda and Vogue are commonly sold in Fabric Stores throughout New Zealand. But do note that there are many other smaller companies/people that make and sell patterns; these are called Independent Patterns or “Indy Patterns”. Most often, you purchase your pattern, and can immediately download the pattern in a pdf format and print out on A4/A3 paper. Then tape it all together, no waiting for patterns to be sent via mail. Things to note on the major pattern companies; Butterick, Vogue, Simplicity, Burda and so on. · Each brand of the major patterns are developed in different countries and may have multiple designers within each company. · Each country has differing size standards. So do note you may be a size 12 in one brand, 10 in another and even a 16 in yet another. · Also note that what size you buy ‘off the rack’ is not necessarily the size you will make from a commercial pattern. I suggest you know your measurements (bust, waist and hip) before you go looking for patterns. If you are making: · A skirt - choose your size from your hip measurement · A shirt (for women) - use bust measurement · A shirt (for men) – use neck and chest measurement · Pants – Use hip measurement · Babies/Toddlers – most often sizing is indicated by age and/or height A size chart can be found in the Pattern Look Book, and also on the actually pattern envelope either on the back or on the lip. Burda have theirs on the pattern tissue. Note: You can be 3 different sizes within a commercial pattern chart. But that’s OK because you can custom size the pattern to fit you as it’s rare to find anyone that matches the exact size. What are your favourite go to patterns? How do you find commercial patterns for sizing?

I sewed for many years but didn't didn't ever really veer to much away from the pattern I was sewing. I didn't actually really understand how patterns were made. I started my pattern development journey back in around 2008. I found a night class at the local polytech. That was just the beginning. I had never gone to fashion school, so the course was just a taster, that left me wanting to know more. I wanted to understand the principles of patterns and the development of them. I'm not a person who comes up with high fashion ideas, not my thing. But I wanted to know, if I saw a picture, could I make that pattern. I did a google search and found this teacher at the other end of the country. I live in New Zealand. This teacher was based in Auckland and me in Christchurch. I took a punt, flew up early, did a day course on grading sizes and flew home. I was hooked. I then enroled regularly in his courses. His name was Done Hellier. A tailor by trade and master pattern development teacher. I studied all his courses. Learnt as much as I could from him. He was a gem of a man, so generous in sharing his knowledge. Only this week, he passed away from a stroke. He has left an incredible legacy. When he retired a few years ago he gifted me many of his class tools, notes and sample. I am determined to carry on with what he taught me so this knowledge never gets lost. I now live in a more remote town called Te Anau. I manage a golf club, but still love to sew and make patterns. I would love to share anything along those lines with anyone who wants to learn. Before moving to the south I was designing and fitting garments. I can tailor coats. And have been teaching sewing for many years. Hoping to carry on with this platform

This is your place to learn sewing without overwhelm. I’m Jane Gilder, and I’ve spent many years sewing, fitting, pattern making, and problem-solving real bodies and real garments. I have also owned and run a sewing school for 15 years. Inside this community, I’ll teach you the skills I’ve learned along the way — from sewing fundamentals to pattern-making know-how — so you can create garments that fit well and feel good to wear.