So I ran across this in another community https://youtu.be/ZeKKC4n9swM?si=FokRCIYtkhN4OnIj check it out

Houseplants don’t yell. They don’t rush. They just are. And maybe that’s the energy we need more of at the table. Next time you’re down on a shot, channel your inner bonsai master. Breathe. Visualize. Execute. Like a plant reaching for the sun, your cue ball wants to find its path—don’t force it. Guide it. What’s your pre-shot ritual? Do you have a “plant-like” moment of stillness before you pull the trigger? Share your zen routine in the comments. Let’s grow our mental game together.

Hey PoolSkoolers, Let me tell you something straight from the felt: fancy shots don’t win games—fundamentals do. I’ve seen it a thousand times. Players chasing trick shots, banking three rails, trying to look like a highlight reel. But when the pressure’s on? It’s the player with the clean stance, the quiet bridge, and the repeatable stroke who walks away with the cash. 🧱 The Foundation: Stance, Grip, and Stroke Your fundamentals are your foundation. Without them, your game is built on sand. That means: - Stance: Balanced, grounded, and stable. You should feel like a tripod—unshakable. - Grip: Loose but controlled. Death-gripping the cue is like trying to write with a frozen hand. - Stroke: Smooth, straight, and repeatable. No chicken wings, no jerks, no drama. These aren’t just checkboxes—they’re habits. And habits become muscle memory. 🧠 Muscle Memory: Your Secret Weapon When your stroke is pure, your body learns fast. You don’t have to “think” about every shot—you just line up and let it flow. That’s muscle memory at work. It’s what lets you stay cool under pressure, shoot consistent patterns, and recover from mistakes without spiraling. And here’s the kicker: good habits lock in just as fast as bad ones. So if you’re gonna groove something into your game, make sure it’s solid. 🔁 Repetition with Intention Drills aren’t punishment—they’re your shortcut to mastery. But only if you do them right. That means: - Slow down. - Focus on form. - Repeat with purpose. Don’t just go through the motions. Every stroke is a vote for the player you’re becoming. 🎯 Bottom Line If you want to run racks, win tournaments, or just stop scratching on the 8, start with your base. Master the boring stuff. Groove the fundamentals. Because when your body knows what to do, your mind is free to play. See you at the table. —Coach

This is one of those deceptively simple billiards questions that actually reveals a ton about how you think about cue‑ball physics and shotmaking. Let’s break it down cleanly so you can choose the right concept for the right moment. 🎱 Squirt & Swerve vs. Low Deflection Two different approaches to the same underlying problem: cue‑ball deflection. 🔵 Squirt & Swerve (a.k.a. “traditional compensation”) This is the skill‑based method. You accept that the cue ball will: • Squirt (immediate sideways deflection off the tip) • Swerve (curving back due to spin + friction) …and you learn to manually compensate with aim adjustments. Why players choose this: • You get a deep understanding of cue‑ball physics. • Works with any cue, any table, any tip. • Gives you more “feel” and adaptability. • Essential for extreme spin shots, masse‑ish shots, and slow‑speed finesse. Why it’s harder: • Compensation changes with: • speed • tip offset • cloth • humidity • cue taper • You must constantly recalibrate. This is the “old‑school master” route. 🔵 Low‑Deflection (LD) Shafts This is the equipment‑based method. LD shafts reduce squirt by lowering end‑mass, so the cue ball deflects less. Why players choose this: • More forgiving • Aim stays more consistent across speeds • Reduces the amount of “mental math” • Helps intermediate players jump levels quickly • Great for long‑distance spin shots Why it’s not magic: • LD doesn’t eliminate squirt; it just reduces it. • Swerve still exists. • You still need to learn compensation for extreme spin or slow shots. This is the “modern efficiency” route

A draw shot is one of the most misunderstood mechanics in cue‑ball physics. Players often think it’s just “hit low and pull back,” but the real engine behind draw is the relationship between sliding, spin, and timing. When you strike the cue ball below center, you’re applying backspin. At the moment of impact with the cue tip, the cue ball leaves with two components: 1. Forward linear momentum (because the cue is pushing it forward) 2. Backward rotational momentum (because you hit below center) These two forces fight each other. As the cue ball travels, cloth friction begins converting the sliding motion into either natural roll (if you hit center or above) or into increasingly dominant backspin (if you hit low enough). The key is this: A draw shot only works if the cue ball is still sliding — not rolling — when it hits the object ball. If the cue ball reaches natural roll before impact, the backspin has already burned off, and the cue ball will simply follow forward. 🌀 What Happens at Impact When the sliding cue ball contacts the object ball, the collision dramatically reduces its forward speed. But the backward rotation remains. Suddenly, the backspin becomes the dominant force, and the cue ball reverses direction, pulling back toward you. This is why draw is a timing shot: • Too soft → backspin wears off before impact → no draw • Too hard → backspin can’t “grab” the cloth → weak or inconsistent draw • Too low → miscue • Too high → no backspin The sweet spot is a balance of tip placement, stroke speed, and cue‑ball travel distance. 🎯 Bottom English vs. Pure Draw Bottom English is simply backspin applied to influence the cue ball’s path after contacting a rail. It’s the same physics as draw, but used differently. • Pure draw: Backspin used to pull the cue ball straight back after hitting the object • Goal: Make the cue ball return on a noticeably shorter angle. • Teaches how backspin interacts with cushions. Draw‑to‑Position Boxes • Place a chalk cube 12–18 inches behind the cue ball.