Hive Inspection Guide
If there's one skill that separates confident beekeepers from nervous ones, it's knowing how to do a proper hive inspection. I'm not talking about just cracking open the lid and hoping for the best—I'm talking about a systematic, purposeful inspection that tells you exactly what's happening inside your colony.
Let me take you back to my third hive inspection ever. I'd opened the hive, pulled out a frame, stared at it for about 30 seconds, and realized I had absolutely no idea what I was looking at. Were those queen cells or just weird-looking drone cells? Was that spotty brood pattern normal or a sign of disease? I closed everything up feeling more confused than when I started.
Sound familiar? You're not alone. The good news is that hive inspection becomes second nature once you know what to look for and in what order. Today, I'm going to walk you through my exact process—the same one I've refined over years of managing multiple hives.
Why Regular Inspections Matter (Even When You're Scared)
I get it. Opening a hive full of 40,000 stinging insects is intimidating. But here's the truth: regular inspections are the single most important thing you can do for your bees' health. Think of it as a wellness check-up. You're looking for problems while they're still small and manageable, not after they've spiraled into colony collapse.
During your first year beekeeping, I recommend inspecting every 7-10 days during the active season (spring through early fall). Yes, that might seem like a lot, but it's how you learn. As you gain experience, you'll naturally adjust the frequency based on what you observe.
Before You Open: The Pre-Inspection Checklist
Don't just walk up to your hive and start pulling frames. A good inspection starts before you even light your smoker. Here's my pre-inspection routine:
Timing is everything. Inspect between 10 AM and 4 PM on a warm, sunny day when most foragers are out working. You'll have fewer bees in the hive and calmer conditions. Never inspect before a storm or in cold, rainy weather—your bees will be cranky, and you won't get accurate information.
Gather your tools. You'll need: a smoker with fuel (I use pine needles and burlap), your hive tool, a frame rest or empty nuc box, and optionally a notebook or your phone for notes. I always keep a small spray bottle of sugar water handy too—it's gentler than smoke for minor calming.
Have a plan. Before you open that hive, know what you're looking for. Are you checking for swarm cells? Verifying the queen is laying? Assessing honey stores? Having a clear objective keeps you focused and minimizes the time the hive is open.
Dress appropriately. Even if you're comfortable without a full suit, at least wear light-colored clothing and avoid strong perfumes or scents. Bees are less defensive when they're not alarmed by dark colors or unusual smells.
The Step-by-Step Inspection Process
Alright, let's get into the actual hive inspection guide. This is my frame-by-frame approach:
Step 1: Approach and Smoke
Stand to the side or behind the hive—never directly in front of the entrance. Give a few gentle puffs of smoke at the entrance, then wait 30 seconds. This gives the guard bees time to retreat and sound the alarm, which triggers the colony to gorge on honey (a calming instinct).
Remove the outer cover and give 2-3 puffs of smoke across the top bars. Replace the cover for another 30 seconds. This isn't about gassing them into submission—it's about communication. You're essentially saying, "Hey, I'm coming in, please stay calm."
Step 2: Start from the Outside
Here's a mistake I see beginners make constantly: they dive straight for the center frames where the brood is. Don't do that. Start with the outermost frame. It's usually honey or empty comb, and it gives you a gentle warm-up while you assess the colony's mood.
Gently pry the frame loose with your hive tool (they'll have propolized it in place), then lift it straight up. Avoid rolling or twisting—you could accidentally crush the queen or dozens of workers. Hold the frame over the hive so any bees that fall land back home.
Step 3: The Five Things You're Looking For
On every frame, you're checking for these five critical indicators:
1. The Queen (or signs of her): You don't need to spot her majesty every single time, but you should see fresh eggs. They look like tiny grains of rice standing upright in the bottom of cells. If you see eggs, you had a laying queen within the last three days. That's your green light.
2. Brood pattern: Healthy brood should be in a solid, compact pattern—mostly filled cells with few gaps. A spotty pattern (lots of empty cells mixed with capped brood) can indicate disease, poor genetics, or a failing queen. The brood should also progress logically: eggs in the center, then larvae, then capped brood radiating outward.
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Hive Inspection Guide
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