Sep '24 • 🏆 CRASY SURF STORIES
KELLY SLATER and little Manua
I went surfinG Teahupoo that day
Very big - 10 to 15 foot waves, with big crowd, Shane Dorian, colapinto brothers, and many more…
That day I got so pounded… one of the hardest day I ever bodyboard of my life.
Ended up 3 times in the lagoon at TEAHUPOO the Olympic wave,
Ending from the wave to the lagoon, mean usually getting obliterated bye a 10+ feet wave, crossing the sharp reef 🪸 underwater, staying over 15 seconds with no air, and paddling 45 minutes to get back to the spot. Times X3 🥲.
Couple hours later, 5hours morning surf, I go back surfing in the afternoon, even if I was completely mental break down from the harsh morning I had…
🔮 I arrive at the spot… and the GOAT of surfing himself alone in the water 🔮
I arrive at the peak, shake his hand and start to talk to the legend, we end up talking for 1 hour just the 2 of us, then Shane Dorian arrives and we continue to chat… I end up having a big wave 🌊 with the encouragement of KELLY SLATER… such a crazy feeling as a « normal person ».
Sometimes I don’t have the words, but from that day I know that
PERSISTENCE - COURAGE - DETERMINATION
Are values that will make your life different
And surfing will teach you those strong qualities 🩵
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KELLY SLATER and little Manua
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