1. Lock In Your Key Measurements Before touching a saw, confirm: - Span (outside to outside of plates) - Run (half the span) - Pitch (roof angle) - Plan layout (hip or valley location, building shape) These control the entire hip/valley system. 2. Use the Hip/Valley Multiplier Hip and valley rafters are longer than common rafters because they run diagonally. Each pitch has a hip/valley multiplier: Pitch Hip/Valley Multiplier15°1.03520°1.06422°1.07825°1.10330°1.155 Hip/Valley Length = Run × Hip/Valley Multiplier Example (22° roof, 3 m run): 3 × 1.078 = 3.234 m This gives you the length from the ridge to the birds mouth. 3. Mark the Plumb Cut Hip and valley rafters use a different plumb cut angle than common rafters. Why? Because they sit at 45° to the building, so the angle changes. Use your speed square: - Set the square to the hip/valley plumb angle (found on the hip/valley scale) - Mark a clean plumb line - Cut accurately — this determines how the hip meets the ridge Tip: Most speed squares have a dedicated “HIP/VAL” scale for this. 4. Mark the Birds mouth The birds mouth on a hip/valley rafter is the same concept as a common rafter, but: - The seat cut is longer because the hip sits diagonally across the plate - The heel cut is steeper due to the hip angle Steps: - Measure down from the plumb cut the calculated length - Mark the heel cut (plumb line) - Mark the seat cut (horizontal line) - Keep the depth within one‑third of the rafter 5. Allow for Overhang Hip and valley rafters also need overhang, but the length is different. Use the hip/valley multiplier again: True Overhang = Horizontal Overhang × Hip/Valley Multiplier Example (450 mm overhang, 22° roof): 0.45 × 1.078 = 485 mm Mark the tail cut using the seat‑cut angle (90° – pitch). 6. Cut One Perfect Pattern Hip/Valley Rafter Just like commons and jacks: - Cut one hip/valley rafter perfectly - Test it at the ridge - Test the birds mouth on the plate - Check fascia height and overhang alignment

Water is the biggest enemy of any home. If your drainage is wrong, everything else will eventually fail — foundations, decks, driveways, retaining walls. Signs of poor drainage: - Water pooling after rain - Muddy or soft ground - Moss growing on paths - Moisture under the house - Bad smell near drains Simple fixes: - Clear gutters and downpipes - Add a channel drain - Install a French drain - Re‑shape the ground to slope away from the house Good drainage protects your home from long‑term damage. It’s one of the best investments you can make. Engagement: Want me to show how to check your drainage.

Most homeowners wait until something breaks before they look at it. But a simple 5‑minute check each month can prevent major problems. What to check: - Walk around the house and look for cracks - Check gutters for blockages - Look under the house for moisture or sagging - Test doors and windows for sticking - Look for soft spots in timber decks or steps These small checks help you catch issues early — before they become expensive repairs. A little bit of knowledge goes a long way. Engagement: Who wants a full checklist.

Painting is one of the easiest DIY jobs, but also one of the easiest to mess up. Top painting tips: - Always prep the surface - Use quality brushes and rollers - Cut in edges before rolling - Do two coats, not one - Let each coat dry properly Good paintwork makes your home look fresh and modern without spending much. Engagement: What room are you painting next.

Small wall damage is easy to fix if you know the right steps. Most people overthink it. How to fix dents or holes: - Clean the area - Apply filler - Sand smooth - Prime the patch - Paint the whole wall section Why this matters: - Stops cracks spreading - Keeps your home looking clean - Prepares walls for painting - Increases value if you’re selling A clean wall makes a big difference in how your home feels.