Youtube taught me to use epoxy on metal and over filler. But... If your sealer is an epoxy, this step can be skipped? So instead of epoxy on filler ud be applying reduced epoxy over 2k, before base. My guess: yes it would work. Why wouldnt it. Another headscratcher.. spi epoxy tds says 320grit over paint at most. But sealer requires 400 so how would that work even? My guess: idk, analysis paralysis. 320 what if it shows, 400 what if it doesnt adhere.. need Aaron on this one I got a quart kit of epoxy, planned to use a bit for bare metal and seal everything before base but now im thinking i might run out, and my 2k urethane states you can base over it without sealer. So maybe thats the way...cuz i have a gallon kit of the 2k.. My guess: its spi so if they say you can apply color over their 2k urethane they are not lying. It would just come down to color. Black epoxy sealer would work only for very dark colors: dark cherry red, dark blue, midnight purple, but grey would work for pretty much anything except for white yellow and like that I grabbed the black epoxy and if used as a sealer it limits the colors you can do but the urethane is grey so the choices would open up.. tbh. I dont care what color it will be.

I am looking closely at finishing off the internal cavity areas of my car body. I'd like to get feedback on what other people are doing in this regard and what products they use. I found a lot of info on what layer process should be used for the external finishing but internally things are not as clear.... I have given the insides of the body panels 2 coats of PPG epoxy primer. After scuffing with a red scotchbrite I was going to apply 2 or 3 heavy coats of uPol Gravitex. This would be applied to the insides of just about anywhere I can get to (inside rear quarters, inside door skins, pillars, front fenders), most of these areas would not get any other paint applied. However, areas that get seen such as inside the rear quarter panels (in the trunk area), would get colour/clear finish on top. So please share what you found works, what is best practice and products are junk and what works for you. Thanks,

So I restored my 1973 Mach 1 in 2020-2021, and the guys who did the paint did a really nice job. The roof panel and both quarters were replaced, and the joint was welded solid. The joint that had originally been filled with lead was filled with long-strand fiberglass filler that was covered with a layer of short-strand fiberglass filler and finally Rage Ultra body filler. The passenger side is perfect. The driver side started showing the outline of the joint late last fall, and now has progressed to cracking the paint. I know that I will have to sand it down and grind it out to get to the root of the problem and correct it. My question is, after I repair the problem, and blend out the panel(s), will I have to blend the entire roof and both quarters together? I have heard that only clearing the repainted areas will allow the transitions to show up in some lighting conditions. If I have to scuff and reclear the roof and both quarters I will, I just want to confirm that that is what I'll have to do. Thanks in advance.

Okay, a short introduction. I live in Europe, Hungary. I am renovating my previously used Alfa Romeo 155 with Busso engine. The bodywork was done by someone else, but unfortunately he only did a mediocre job. I have already finished the complete sanding, priming and puttying of the bodywork. I also have the undercoat. The paint (Alfa 431/A bleu spazio metallic) and the topcoat will follow soon. I use the PPG Deltron materials that were originally used for all painting.

When using a high-flake paint (2020 Jag British Racing Green Metallic), I have understood that it's best to have the hood, trunk & doors installed on-car for paint alignment purposes versus hung or on stands. True? This is essentially a complete resto-mod with color change. Process is base / clear.