Module Title: Fixing an American Standard Flush Valve for Full Capacity Flushes Hey everyone, licensed plumber here with another critical lesson in our Plumbing 101 series. Today, we're tackling a super common but often misdiagnosed issue that leads to weak, incomplete toilet flushes: the incorrectly sized flush valve. This is an easy fix that can save homeowners a fortune in plumber visits and frustration from constant clogs. I recently visited a commercial restroom with an American Standard toilet. The customer's complaint was straightforward: "The toilet keeps getting stopped up every day, it seems like it has no pressure." This is where the detective work begins. First, I checked the obvious: was it a pressurized toilet system, or a tank system? It was a standard tank system, which meant the problem was happening inside the tank. Upon removing the tank lid, the issue became immediately apparent. The existing flush valve assembly—the component that holds the water until the flush—was simply too tall. You could clearly see that the water in the tank was stopping several inches below the top of the overflow tube. The Math of the Flush: In this particular toilet, the overflow tube's height dictates the maximum water level and, therefore, the maximum amount of water used for a flush. The valve installed was an older model that sat too high in the tank. The Loss of Power: I estimated we were missing out on a massive 3.5 to 4 inches of water capacity per flush. When you only use a fraction of the tank's water, you don't generate the necessary volume and force to properly clear the bowl and send waste down the drain. The toilet was flushing from a short 3-inch water line, resulting in that frustrating, weak flush the customer was experiencing. The Fix is a Simple Swap: We went to the local hardware store and picked up an Everbilt 3-inch Universal Flush Valve Kit. This kit is readily available, very affordable (around $13.97), and designed to be adjustable for different tank heights.

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