Activity
Mon
Wed
Fri
Sun
Oct
Nov
Dec
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
What is this?
Less
More
The DIY HVAC Community
204 members • Free
9 contributions to The DIY HVAC Community
4d •
How to get EPA 608
Hi! I am a young homeowner (about 2 years now) and when my wife and I were getting the general inspection it was noted that our AC used R-22 refrigerant and might need to be replaced if it started leaking. After hearing how much it would cost to replace a system (and having some ideas of my own for improving IAQ) I have started down the road of getting prepared for a DIY replacement should that happen in the near future. From reading a few posts it sounds like getting the universal EPA 608 is a good first step. Are there any recommendations for online training courses that teach the material well? A quick search showed SkillCat but I am curious if anyone had any preferences. Thanks!
1 like • 3d
Download the SkillCat app, make an account, pick the course. Takes 5 minutes. First 3 days are free, after that you would have to pay 9 bucks a month. Course takes about 9 hours. They also offer the exam. That being said, R-22 can still be found. If its a small leak, you could recover, fix leak, recharge and top off with a small tank.
21d •
I just joined
...and replied to a couple threads, and read the rest. My first thought is that nobody around here so far seems to be in a state where they could pull off an install. There is a massive gap between somebody who knows how to build an IKAE set or drill a hole in the wall, and installing a complete HVAC system. I was expecting to find DIYers that are used to pulling an engine from their car in order to replace the cam. I'd consider those type of DIYers a good match for learning how to do HVAC. But what I'm seeing so far are folks that don't want to get ripped off, but completely lack any proper handyman skills. And I don't think that many are willing to fill in the HVAC skill and knowledge gap in this busy world, next to a full time job and family obligations. Maybe this will change over time and Dave's YT channel is the best starting point. That being said, he as been around for years. I don't think that most homeowners understand how much they have to catch up to make this work for themselves. I think new members to this forum should be informed right away, that DIY in this field requires true commitment. They won't get solution by asking questions and then not even coming back to their own thread, let alone buying the suggested tools and actually getting it started. Wonder how many bought some tools and soon gave up.
1 like • 5d
@Jon Bianco I think that's the only feasible way to get into this. If you wait until your system fails with a dead compressor or a leak, you'd need several months to learn, buy the proper tools, better get that 608 cert, do the calculations if you do any changes, and talk / walk through the planned process many times. Then you better take your time to do it right. What 2 HVAC techs can pull off in 1 or 2 days, likley takes a DIYer over a week. Most folks I know, are not willing to sit in a hot house for the rest of the summer in order to learn and do it right. So they rush it and make mistakes, or they give up in the middle of it, and get to deal with HVAC businesses that won't touch any DIY attempts, or they may charge them even higher. I think Dave should make a video and a pinned thread in this forum, addressing this major elephant in the room. The goal is preparedness, and that starts WELL before major repairs or a new system lines up. When I bought my house, I realized that all local HVAC companies massively overcharge, so I knew that I could never watch my face in the mirror again if I would pay those prices, like a clueless sheep. At that point my system was 4 years old. I invested time and money for tools, for the past 8 years, by watching most HVAC channels on YouTube, on the side. I spent about 4 weeks just getting the best tools for my needs. I saved countless PDFs, course materials, manuals, bookmarks. I made my own flowchart for checking heat pump systems and for my own future replacement. I repaired a bunch of issues in those years o my system, starting with simple cap replacements, clogged drain line, falsely installed drain float switch, installing my own 2 valve drain pipe flush system, contactor replacement, fixing a short on the air handler board, installing a duct fan, installing a Y in the return duct for my server rack, installing a new fan motor in the air handler, testing for charge, superheat, etc with a 6 probe kit, acid test, megger test, amp draw.
0 likes • 4d
@David S Glad I could add a homeowner's perspective. I'm just trying to help make this manageable for DIYers. I watched all your videos over the years. And it took me years to piece everything together to a point that I finally felt confident to do my own system replacement. I think that most viewers never arrive at this point and drop out. You have several videos that show an entire install, but each misses some details that will leave DIYers with the feeling that they are overwhelmed. And those folks will not even buy any tools and click your affiliate links. If I would run your YT channel, my channel "trailer" video would explain how to get into this field of DIY the right way, by suggestion these key points: 1. DIY repairs and replacements on your own AC system are possible, but the key is to prepare well BEFORE the system goes out. 2. Don't wait until something happens. Get educated here, buy tools, get the 608 cert if possible. I'd even mention that many homeowners could find a new income source in the trade once they own the tools and the cert. In many places HVAC companies will hire helpers that come prepared and with a clean driving record. So this investment in tools is also an option to make a living down the road. With AI replacing so many desk jobs, I know for a fact that many folks will look into the trades very soon. Then I would split details of an install into a series of many videos. Trying to squeeze it all in one, will never work out, unless the video is 8+ hours. And even that won't cover all details. I'd place that series into a playlist. And I'd still do reviews, whole system install videos and more repair videos, for more education and also entertainment. Many people watch your videos because of you. You are very well spoken, entertaining and likeable. There is room to include even more personal aspects for more views and growths. just my 2 cents
8d •
Research Mode, looking at replacing 20 year old R-22 3 ton, 80k BTU gas Furnace, need two replacements
I live in Las Vegas and I believe I can get great prices from HVACDIRECT, ACUNITSFORLESS, ACDIRECT Here is the Goodman system I'm looking at, 3 Ton Goodman 17.5 SEER2 R32 Heat Pump GZV7SA3610, Goodman 4 Ton R-32 Horizontal Cased Evaporator Coil with EEV CHPEA4830C3, Goodman 80% AFUE Gas Furnace Variable Speed ECM, Two Stage GRVT800805CX, So this system will be a inverter heat-pump outdoor unit for its excellent variable speed air conditioning capability, while using the natural gas furnace as the sole heating source, this package has AHRI #215434224 which certifies for cooling capacity Seer2, eer2, still learning, as I understand you can ether program or disable the heat pump side and only use the gas furnace?, kept the furnace at 80% efficiency to utilize same metal exhaust, save a few dollars, which is the point, I did not realize the coil could be over sized to 4 ton, The AHRI cert says higher efficiency because larger coil has more surface area for heat transfer. I have a 48 inch pad so the new unit will fit, still need to confirm line-sets can be cleaned and diameter will work for the new system, I believe they will work, I have a single story house 2500 square foot, two zones for the systems. I have flexible duct work, it looks like it is in good shape, still 20 years old, should I replace and have a all new HVAC?. I have also looked at ACIQ systems, great product, both my HVAC cooling systems are in great shape because of lack of use. I've installed a 12K BTU AIRSPOOL Mini Spilt that is using DC input from 4 400 watt panels and in my bedroom I have a Midea inverter 8K BTU very low cost to run, I see a lot of benefit to augment/ or zone, existing Home rooms instead of air conditioning the whole house. So during the day I use the Airspool and shut off when I go to bed, the Midea works great for the bed room, been using both for 3 years. When neighbors electric bills on average $400-500 each month for A/C, that made my choice for these two products a good decision. I would like to give Dave the props
1 like • 8d
If the old system sill works, no need to replace. Could have another 10 years in it. Never stop a running system. If you are going to change tonnage by more than 0.5 you will likely need larger diameter duct-work throughout in order to prevent sweating, water damage and mold. I'd get a 6 piece Fieldpiece probe kit and log the system from year to year in summer, including amp draw for the compressors with a clamp meter, and an acid tests. I'd plan an install of a new system for the next winter once you deal with a coil leak or a compressor running harder (pulling more amps / acid in the lines). Those tools can be used for repairs and system change, so this isn't money thrown out of the window. That's what I do with my 13 year old system. Check, maintain, log, and be ready to change the system in the next winter when data indicates a slow leak or compressors running out of steam.
19d •
Soleus Saddle Window Heat Pump
Condensation issues - Flashes 'FL' and compressor stops cooling until I pull drain plug and put bucket underneath, which lets the water drain and the unit returns to cooling normally. I think there's a pump which may have failed due to blockage. Any info on how to open / inspect / repair?
0 likes • 8d
An FL code means the lower base pan or internal sump is flooded, tripping a float switch and stopping the compressor. Saddle AC units have tight over-the-window chassis designs, meaning full pump access usually requires disassembling the outer or indoor casing, though many clear with a flush first. Quick Flush - try this first - before opening the heavy casing: 1. Unplug the unit. 2. Remove the lower drain plug and drain all water. 3. Flush the inner pan with a 50/50 mix of warm water and white vinegar or mild soap to break down slime/algae blocking the pickup zone or float. 4. Let sit for 15–20 minutes, flush with clean water, reinstall plug, and test. [2, 3] How to Open and Inspect the Saddle Unit Saddle units drape over the window sill, splitting indoor and outdoor weight. Opening them safely: • Unplug the unit completely. • Remove the unit from the window and place it on a flat, stable, level outdoor work surface (or a large waterproof mat with towels) because residual water will spill. • Remove the air filter and front plastic faceplate (usually held by hidden clips and 1–2 screws under snap caps). Accessing the Sump / Pump Area 1. Remove outer cabinet screws securing the wrap-around sheet metal cover. 2. Slide the outer shell back/off carefully, watching for wire harnesses connected to the control board or display. 3. Locate the lower saddle bridge/pan where the condensation pools. 4. Inspect the Float Switch: Look for a small plastic hinge/float arm near the sump. Ensure it moves freely up and down and isn't stuck "high". 5. Inspect the Pump/Sump: Look for a small submersible pump or slinger/pickup zone. Check the intake screen for hair, slime, or gunk. Repair & Fix Options • Clorox/Vinegar buildup: Clear all debris from the tiny channel leading to the pump/drain area. • Stuck Float: Gently clean mineral or slime buildup off the float pivot pin so it drops when water drains. • Dead Pump: If the pump has power (test voltage or listen for hum/click when float is lifted manually, or check continuity with a multimeter) but won't pump, the micro-motor or impeller is dead.
13d •
Colorado AC replacement
Have a Condo that was built in 2017 that I moved in a few years ago in Greeley, CO. A few weeks ago, the compressor blew out (see pictures), and on my very limited single dad budget, been trying to find a solution while the mid-90's temps continue here in Colorado. I've been in construction a long time as a PM, and do some very light handyman work on the side, so when I started receiving quotes to replace just the compressor at around $5-6k and know that full system replacements are more like $15k, I knew I needed to find another way. Thankful to find the DIY HVAC YouTube channel which gave me hope that I can do this... The only things I'm unsure of is handling the refrigerant (I don't have the EPA 608 cert), and finding the correct info on sizing. The existing unit is a Lennox system that was installed when the place was built in 2017 (yes I checked warranties and supposedly there was only a 5 year warranty on it). The current outside condensing unit is a 1.5 ton unit and the inside air handler that is above the gas furnace is a 2 ton air handler with R-410A. It appears as though my gas furnace could go up to 3 ton with it's blower capacity. My condo is a 2 story with an unfinished basement (that I had planned on finishing before this happened), current finished space is around 1500 sq ft and total area is around 2300 sq ft. Using basic online calculators it is suggesting like a 4-5 ton, but I don't want to upgrade the furnace so I was thinking of doing a 2.5 to 3 ton unit. With the sales this weekend I am really tempted to jump on the HVACDirect deals on the ACiQ 3 Ton 15.6 SEER2 High Efficiency Air Conditioner with 17.5" Multi-Positional Cased Coil | Inverter - R454B. Maybe I'm going to far with doing a full replace and can somehow just find a compressor and replace it? Any thoughts? If I do go forward with the full AC replace, is that above system a good choice? Should I clean out my existing line set and reuse or just order and run a new one? It looks like I need to get a permit just to replace my AC system here in Greeley, so I'm planning to look into that. I also plan to reach out to the few HVAC connections I have to see what it would take to have them draw down the refrigerant in the current system since I can't pull it into the compressor since it blew. Anyway, just hoping to have other speak some wisdom into my situation if possible and I will keep looking through other's experiences and DIY HVAC's videos.
0 likes • 12d
@Nate Patrick Yes, I saw those photos. That can happen with a loose connection and / or a bad cap. None of that says that the compressor is shorted. Also, HVAC techs love to up-sell homeowners into replacements. Test it as suggested with a multimeter. If you have none, you can get a decent one on Amazon for $37: https://www.amazon.com/KAIWEETS-Multimeter-Resistance-Capacitance-Temperature/dp/B07SHLS639 If it was all based on a loose connection and / or bad cap, the repair would be below $100 for a plug repair kit and a new cap. That being said, if you have no background in basic electronics, owning a multimeter is part of that, I'm not sure that a full DIY system replacement is a good match. In my opinion, doing DIY on HVAC does require a good amount of existing skills in electronics, using all kinds of hand tools, understanding of mechanics, etc.
1 like • 10d
On the matter: https://www.instagram.com/reels/CxYJPkqrGcG/
1-9 of 9
